Pattern 3037 – is a comfortable women’s hoodie in a sporty casual style. The garment is designed for knit fabrics such as loop-back sweatshirt fleece (two-thread or three-thread). Key features of the model: a dropped shoulder line, a one-piece hood with a stand collar, a zipper closure, yokes on the front and back, an extended back (about 10 cm longer than the front), elastic in the hood and along the hem, sleeve cuffs with a small slit and a pleat.
The model fits loosely, with a comfortable ease at the bust, allowing you to wear the hoodie over T-shirts, turtlenecks or lightweight sweatshirts.
Main materials:
Notions:
| Material | Unit | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (width 1.80 m) | m | 1.4* | 1.4* | 1.4* | 1.4* | 1.45* | 1.45* | 1.5* | 1.5* | 1.55* |
| Fusible interfacing (width 1.50 m) | m | 0.15* | 0.15* | 0.15* | 0.15* | 0.15* | 0.15* | 0.15* | 0.15* | 0.15* |
| Zipper | cm | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 |
| Elastic for hood | cm | 72** | 72** | 72** | 72** | 72** | 72** | 72** | 72** | 72** |
| Elastic for hoodie hem | cm | 110** | 114** | 118** | 122** | 126** | 130** | 134** | 138** | 142** |
* Fabric consumption is given without allowance for shrinkage, directional prints, nap, checks/stripes, skewing and other technical specifics.
** Elastic length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the specific elastic tape.
Step 1. Cutting and transferring markings. Print pattern 3037 at 100% scale and choose your size based on bust measurement. When cutting, carefully follow the grain direction. Transfer all notches, yoke outlines, eyelet positions, zipper lines and sleeve pleat markings onto the fabric.
Step 2. Fusing. Fuse with knit interfacing: the tabs (loops), the eyelet areas on the hood, front and back, the zipper plackets, and parts of the yokes where extra structure is needed. Do not stretch either the fabric or the interfacing; press through a pressing cloth with a barely warm iron, no steam.
Step 3. Preparing the tabs and strap. Fold the fused strips for two tabs (loops) lengthwise in half, wrong sides together, and press the seam allowances inside. Stitch down the center lengthwise to secure the allowances, then topstitch along the edge of the tab. One tab is for the hood, the other is for the back under the yoke.
Step 4. Front yokes. Place the front yokes and the main front pieces right sides together, match the notches and stitch. Press the seam allowances upward toward the yoke. Sew one or two rows of topstitching along the seam to secure the allowance. Repeat for both fronts.
Step 5. Back yoke and tab. Mark the center on the back and stitch the tab in the required position. Then attach the back yoke, press the seam allowances upward and topstitch on the yoke. Install the eyelets on the back in the marked positions, after fusing the area with interfacing.
Step 6. Preparing the fronts for the zipper and eyelets. Fuse strips on the front edges for the zipper and eyelets. Press the inner seam allowances on the front edge: first 1 cm inward, then another 3 cm, forming a neat placket. Install the eyelets according to the markings near the hood line for the future drawstring or elastic.
Step 7. Assembling the hood pieces. Stitch the hood insert to the main pieces of the upper and lower hood, matching the notches. On the lower hood, sew the topstitching on the hood piece itself; on the upper hood, sew it on the insert to avoid creating bulk in one spot. Additionally, fuse the eyelet areas on the upper hood and install the eyelets. On the right half of the hood, stitch the fused strap centered on the insert.
Step 8. Attaching the yoke inserts to the hood. Attach the short front yoke pieces that continue into the hood to the upper and lower hood along the neckline for about 5–6 cm. Spread and press the seam allowances – this will make inserting the zipper easier.
Step 9. Inserting the zipper into the hood. Measure the required zipper length according to the pattern (about 30 cm) and shorten it if necessary by carefully removing excess teeth and setting a new stop. Place the zipper onto the fused edge of the hood insert, leaving a 1 cm allowance from the lower edge. Stitch the zipper, stopping before the top edge of the hood. Sew a small fused facing/placket piece to the lower zipper “tail” to cover the raw edge and make the inner corner neat.
Step 10. Joining the upper and lower hood. Place the upper and lower hood right sides together, align the face edge and the zipper edge. Stitch as far as the presser foot can reach, especially near the zipper. Clip the seam allowances on curves, carefully trim the corners, turn the hood right side out and press the edge thoroughly.
Step 11. Elastic in the hood. Cut the hood elastic according to the table. Thread it through the eyelets, forming a casing, and secure the ends to the zipper seam allowances or to the insert seam by hand with blind stitches. Then topstitch around the hood edge about 2.5 cm from the edge, securing the elastic inside at the same time.
Step 12. Shoulder seams and preparation for attaching the hood. Sew the shoulder seams of the fronts and back; press the allowances open. If additional decorative topstitching is planned on the yokes, do it now. Make sure the neckline length matches the length of the hood stand edge.
Step 13. Attaching the hood to the neckline. There are two options. The cleanest: first sew the lower hood to the front facing (placket) and the back neck area on a regular machine, spread the seam allowances and secure them. Then, on an overlocker or with a straight stitch, sew the upper hood into the neckline, matching notches and shoulder seams. Through the facing, with the garment turned, take the seam allowances of the lower and upper hood and connect them with short lines of stitching so the hood-collar doesn’t twist and the back-neck edge is “enclosed” inside.
Step 14. Setting in the sleeves. Place the sleeve and armhole right sides together, match the front, back and sleeve cap notches. Set the sleeve into the open armhole; press the seam allowances toward the sleeve. If desired, topstitch along the sleeve cap seam, securing the allowance.
Step 15. Side seams and sleeve seams. Place the fronts and back right sides together. In one continuous seam, stitch the side seams and sleeve seams, matching the notches. Press the allowances open or press them to one side, depending on the fleece thickness.
Step 16. Preparing the cuffs. Sew the cuffs into a ring by joining the short edges. Turn, fold lengthwise in half and press. On the sleeve, use the four notches as a guide: from the side seam, leave the first two for the slit opening; bring the next two together, forming a small pleat directed toward the slit. Secure the pleat with a basting stitch.
Step 17. Attaching the cuffs. Insert the cuff into the sleeve with right sides together, aligning the cuff fold with the slit and the notches. Sew the cuff in a circle, easing in the sleeve slightly. Turn the seam allowances inside the cuff and topstitch from the right side 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam. A small opening remains in the slit area for the snap closure.
Step 18. Finishing the hem and inserting elastic. Press up the hem to the width specified by the pattern (about 3–4 cm). Cut the hem elastic according to the table, insert it into the casing, creating a slight blousing, and tie the ends in a tight knot. Then secure the casing with a coverstitch or a twin needle along the folded edge, making sure the elastic does not get caught under the needle.
Step 19. Final finishing and hardware. Install snaps on the cuffs and, if desired, on the front edges. If needed, add additional cord locks for the elastic in the hood and at the hem. Check symmetry of all stitching and the lengths of the sleeves and garment. Give the hoodie a final press with a barely warm iron through a pressing cloth, avoiding heavy pressure so you don’t flatten the fleece texture.