A lined shirt jacket is a comfortable and stylish outerwear option for the whole family. The relaxed fit, dropped shoulder line, yokes, welt pockets and decorative flaps, cuffs, and a snap-button closure create a modern everyday look, while the lining adds comfort in cooler weather.
This masterclass shows how to neatly finish welt pockets, yokes, set sleeves with cuffs, prepare and attach the lining, and assemble all parts so that no extra bulk forms in the corners or along the front edge.
STEP 1. Welt with topstitched edges
There is a marked pocket placement on the front. Using this marking, make a welt with topstitched edges: fold the welt piece, stitch it, turn it right side out, press, and topstitch around the perimeter. Sew the welt to the front, following the marked lines.
STEP 2. Flaps and snaps
Make the flap: stitch the flap pieces together, turn right side out, press, and topstitch along the edge if desired. Attach the flap to the front using the notches. At this stage, it’s convenient to install the snap on the flap right away—it's easier to access than when the jacket is fully assembled.
STEP 3. Front yoke
After finishing the pockets and flaps, sew the front yoke in place, matching the notches. Press the seam allowances upward and topstitch along the yoke about 0.5 cm from the seam. Repeat for the other front piece, making sure the yokes, pockets, and flaps are placed symmetrically.
STEP 4. Back yoke
Sew the yoke to the back, aligning the notches. Press the seam allowances upward, and topstitch along the back yoke as well—this secures the seam allowances and emphasizes the style line.
STEP 5. Sleeve notches
The sleeve has several important notches:
STEP 6. Form the pleat near the cuff
Stitch the pleat along the pleat notches, securing it at the bottom with a short line of stitching so it won’t open during further work. Press the pleat toward the side seam—when the cuff is fastened in the finished garment, it will create this pleat, so the pleat direction should match the closure direction.
STEP 7. Preparing the cuffs
Stitch the cuffs along the short edges and turn them right side out. Topstitch around the cuff perimeter 0.5 cm from the edge. By the time you sew in the sleeves, the cuffs should already be fully prepared.
STEP 8. Shoulder seams and topstitching
Place the fronts and back right sides together and sew the shoulder seams; press the seam allowances open. Additionally, stitch a short line along the back yoke to secure the shoulder seam.
STEP 9. Setting the sleeve into an open armscye
The sleeve is set into an open armscye. Match the sleeve cap center notch to the shoulder seam, and the front sleeve notch to the front armscye notch. Sew in the sleeve. Then add an extra line of stitching to secure the seam—this gives the shoulder a cleaner look.
STEP 10. Side seams and sleeve seams
The side seam and sleeve seam are sewn in one continuous seam. Match the notches on the side seam: the back is slightly longer, so stitch until the notches meet and secure with a backstitch at that point.
STEP 11. Attaching the cuffs
At the sleeve hem, use the cuff notches as guides. Pin the cuff in place, matching seams and notches and distributing the pleat toward the side seam. Sew the cuff on.
STEP 12. Collar
The collar is made according to the pattern and is sewn between the garment and the front facings from notch to notch along the neckline. After this, the outer jacket is considered ready: sleeves with cuffs are attached, yokes are finished, pockets are done, and the collar is in place.
STEP 13. Lining and facings
Sew the facings to the front lining pieces, then attach the lining back to the fronts at the shoulder seams. Set the lining sleeves into the open armscyes and sew the side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous seam. Sew a hanging loop to the back neckline. Leave an opening in the left lining sleeve for turning the garment right side out. Press all lining and facing seams carefully.
STEP 15. Sewing the hem facings
Attach the hem facings to the front facings and along the jacket hem. Make sure the facing seams and the garment seams are pressed and aligned. Shape neat rounded lines in the corners by making small securing stitches near the lining connection points.
STEP 16. Turning and pressing with a slight roll
After sewing on the hem facings, turn the jacket right side out and carefully straighten the front edges and hem. Press the facings and hem facings, forming a slight roll (turn of cloth) toward the inside along the front edge and hem facing.
STEP 17. Sewing the lining to the cuffs
To attach the lining to the sleeve hem, turn the lining inside out, reach through the neckline to find the lining sleeve seam and the outer sleeve seam, turn the sleeve, and stitch the lining to the cuff in a круг seam. Repeat for both the right and left sleeves.
STEP 18. Securing the lining in the sleeves
To prevent the lining from twisting, secure it with a short line of stitching about 0.5 cm along the sleeve seam over a small section on both sides.
STEP 19. Sewing the lining to the neckline
Sew the neckline through the opening in the sleeve. Insert your hand through the opening, grab the neckline seam allowances and the lining, and pull this area outward. Sew the lining with the facings to the neckline, stitching into the same seam line where the collar is attached. Match the notches, shoulder seams, and the back center so the collar lies evenly.
STEP 20. Final turning and closing the opening
Turn the jacket right side out again through the sleeve opening. Carefully shape and align the corners of the front edge and hem; if needed, use a needle or a small stick, working gently to avoid damaging the fabric. Close the opening in the lining sleeve with invisible hand stitches or a neat машинной stitch.
STEP 21. Topstitching along the front edges and hem
Topstitch along the front edges and the hem примерно 0.5 cm from the edge. Start at the beginning of the collar, stitch down one front edge, across the hem, and up the other front edge, finishing symmetrically near the collar.
STEP 22. Snaps and final pressing
Mark the snap placements along the front edge and on the cuffs, following the pattern or your preferred fit. Install the snaps. Finally, press the jacket once more: the front edges, collar, cuffs, hem, and yokes. Your lined shirt jacket is ready to wear.