A women’s straight-silhouette jacket made from quilted raincoat fabric with 100 g/m² insulation. The trim is made of «teddy» knit fabric; the garment is fully lined.
The model features a double-breasted button closure, a set-in two-piece sleeve, a bust dart transferred into the neckline, patch pockets on the front, and a notched collar with a stand and lapels.
Buttons – 5 pcs.
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (quilted raincoat fabric), 1.5 m width | 1.5* | 1.6* | 1.6* | 1.65* | 1.65* | 1.65* | 1.7* | 1.90* | 1.95* |
| Lining, 1.5 m width | 1.2* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.3* | 1.35* | 1.4* |
| Trim («teddy» knit), 1.5 m width | 0.5* | 0.5* | 0.5* | 0.5* | 0.5* | 0.5* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* |
* material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, pattern direction, nap direction, plaids or stripes, skew, matching gaps, and other technological losses.
** the length of elastic (if additionally used in model modifications) is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic itself.
Before cutting, if possible, pre-shrink (decate) the materials according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, check the fabric for defects, nap direction, and pattern placement.
Cutting and preparation of pieces. Cut the pieces from the main quilted raincoat fabric, the «teddy» trim fabric, and the lining, taking into account the grainline and nap direction. On all main-fabric pieces, sew a securing stitch around the perimeter with a 0.5 cm seam allowance to fix the layers of raincoat fabric and insulation and prevent shifting.
Perform all pressing/ironing operations with a slightly warm iron without steam, using a press cloth, so as not to damage the insulation and the raincoat fabric.
Patch pockets with «teddy» trim. Using the pocket template, mark the stitching outline for attaching the trim and the fold line along the top edge on the pocket piece. Cut the «teddy» knit piece slightly larger around the perimeter (about 1 cm) than the pocket outline. After cutting, gently shake the cut edges to remove excess pile.
Place the trim on the pocket along the marked lines and pin evenly, following the template outline. Stitch the trim, sewing right along the edge of the knit base and brushing the pile away from the needle. On the wrong side, the «teddy» piece extends beyond the pocket outline.
Sew the lining to the top edge of the pocket, leaving a small technical opening for turning. Fold the pocket and lining right sides together along the marked fold line, aligning the edges. Stitch the pieces from the trim side, aligning to the edges of the main-fabric pocket piece. Clip the corners, turn the pocket right side out, and square the corners.
Close the opening with invisible hand stitches. Baste the pocket edges with diagonal stitches, forming an even roll (edge). If desired, sew short bartacks at the top of the pocket, catching the quilting stitch line. Make the second pocket and check symmetry of the pair.
Front and bust dart. Using the patterns, transfer pocket placement outlines to the fronts (on the right side) and the bust-dart apex point (on the wrong side). Use the front edge and hem as reference points and check that markings are symmetrical on the right and left fronts.
Stitch the bust dart from the control point to the notch, stopping about 1 cm before the lapel break corner seam allowance edge. Before stitching, align the notch with the 1 cm allowance at the lapel corner. Press the dart allowances toward the garment center, gently shaping the dart point for a smooth transition without creases.
Attaching patch pockets to the front. Place the finished pockets on the fronts along the marked lines, first aligning the pocket edges to the front edge and the hem. Be sure to check that pocket placement is symmetrical on both fronts.
Stitch the pockets along the side edges and bottom edge with a seam 0.1 cm from the edge. While stitching, brush the «teddy» pile aside so the needle goes through the pocket lining and the main fabric without crushing the pile. After stitching, remove the basting and, if needed, carefully steam the marking lines.
Joining the front and back, hemming with a facing. Place the fronts and back right sides together and stitch the shoulder and side seams, matching notches. Press seam allowances open to each side using a slightly warm iron without steam.
Stitch the hem-facing pieces together at the side seams and press the allowances open. For the facing, use lining fabric or a thin companion fabric without insulation to avoid bulk at the hem; if needed, interface the facing.
Place the facing and the jacket hem right sides together and stitch, matching side seams and notches. Press the seam allowance toward the facing.
Garment lining. Place the upper and lower front-facing (underlapel/front facing) pieces right sides together and stitch along the joining line, matching notches. Press the seam allowance toward the lower facing piece.
Attach the front lining to the facings, matching notches; press the seam allowances toward the lining. Next, place the front and back lining right sides together and stitch the shoulder and side seams; press seam allowances toward the back.
Using the back pattern, mark a pleat at the center neckline. Stitch the pleat along the marked line, securing with backstitches at the beginning and end, then press the pleat toward the left half. Make a hanger loop and sew it to the back lining neckline along the outline marked on the pattern.
Attaching the lining to the hem and front edge. Place the lining hem and the jacket hem facing right sides together and stitch, leaving a technical opening at the center back about 30–40 cm long for turning and convenient handling.
Next, place the front edge and facing right sides together, matching notches and shoulder seams. Stitch the front edge to the facing up to the notch at the lapel break corner, forming an underturn/roll so that the hem facing is not visible from the right side.
From the notch at the lapel break to the middle of the lapel, slightly ease in the facing, creating a small extra allowance for a nice roll. At the lapel corner, clip to within about 0.2–0.3 cm of the stitching. Carefully turn the lapels and front edges right side out, square the corners, and form the roll: along the front edge – toward the facing; along the lapel – toward the front. Lightly press without crushing the pile or insulation.
Collar preparation. Place the undercollar pieces right sides together and stitch the center seam. Press the seam allowances open. Attach the collar stands to the upper collar and to the undercollar, matching notches; press seam allowances toward the stand.
Since the upper collar is slightly larger than the undercollar, cut the pieces from the raincoat fabric and the «teddy» trim carefully; if needed, true up the edges using the pattern and check the symmetry of the undercollar – the fit of the whole collar unit depends on its accuracy.
On both sides of the undercollar, mark the start points of the collar fall, stopping about 1 cm before the lower edge. Place the upper and undercollars right sides together and stitch along the top edge and fall from mark to mark, stitching on the undercollar side and slightly easing the upper collar along curves. Turn the collar right side out, smooth the curves, and press carefully, forming the roll toward the undercollar.
Setting the collar into the neckline. Place the undercollar to the jacket neckline right sides together, matching notches at the center back, shoulder seams, and at the lapel break corners. Pin in place. Stitch the undercollar into the neckline from notch to notch at the lapel corners.
At the lapel break corner, clip to within about 0.3 cm of the stitching. Unfold the collar and stitch it to the lapel break corner, starting and ending the seam exactly at the control points.
In the same way, stitch the upper collar into the lining neckline, matching all notches. Then spread the seam allowances at the collar join and stitch together only the neckline seam allowances of the outer jacket and lining, sewing as close as possible to the collar-setting seam. Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening at the bottom of the back lining and lightly press the neckline.
Sleeve preparation. Place the main-fabric sleeve pieces right sides together along the front seam and stitch, matching notches. Press the seam allowances open with a slightly warm iron without steam, and press the hem turn-up along the notches.
Next, stitch the sleeve along the elbow seam and press those seam allowances open as well. Turn the sleeve right side out.
Place the sleeve lining pieces right sides together and stitch the front and elbow seams, matching notches. Leave a technical opening about 15 cm long in the front seam of the left sleeve lining for turning. Press seam allowances toward the lower sleeve piece.
Joining the sleeve with the lining. Insert the main sleeve into the lining sleeve right sides together, aligning the hem edges and seams. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem, matching the front and elbow seams.
Fold the sleeve hem along the pressed line so the turn-up goes to the wrong side, forming the hem. Secure the allowances together with short tacks at the front and back seams, stitching exactly into the seam line. On the elbow-seam side, create a small lining ease (about 0.5 cm) and additionally tack the allowances at the middle of the elbow seam so the lining does not pull the sleeve during wear.
Turn the sleeves right side out through the technical opening in the lining.
Setting the sleeves into the armholes. Sew a gathering (easing) stitch along the sleeve cap from notch to the elbow seam with a 0.5 cm seam allowance. Slightly pull the thread to form a soft sleeve-cap ease without pleats.
Place the sleeve into the jacket armhole right sides together, matching notches: sleeve-cap center to shoulder seam, front sleeve notch to the corresponding front notch, back notch to the back armhole notch, and the side-seam notch. Pin or hand-baste the sleeve in place.
Set in the sleeve with a 1 cm seam allowance, distributing the ease evenly along the cap. Set in the second sleeve the same way. Then secure the sleeve lining to the lining armhole at the shoulder seam, place the lining armhole and sleeve lining right sides together and stitch, matching notches and slightly easing the cap. Turn the sleeves through the technical opening.
Finishing. Close the technical opening at the bottom of the back lining with invisible stitches or by machine if the construction allows. Additionally, secure the hem turn-up allowances at the side seams with short tacks, stitching exactly into the side seam.
Using the patterns, mark the buttonhole and button positions on the front edges. Work the buttonholes on the chosen side and sew on 5 buttons on the opposite side to form the double-breasted closure.
Do the final pressing: align the lapels, collar, hem, and sleeves, making sure not to compress the insulation and not to flatten the «teddy» pile. The jacket is ready for fitting and wear.