The pajama set consists of a button-up shirt and straight-leg pants with cuffs at the hem. This tutorial works for the following patterns:
All shirt versions feature a straight silhouette, a slightly dropped shoulder line, and cuffs at the sleeve hem. The front includes a patch pocket; the collar is a stand-and-fall notched collar with lapels; the closure is buttoned. A signature decorative detail is piping along the cuffs, pocket, collar, lapels, and front edge.
All pants versions have a straight silhouette, a grown-on waistband for elastic, and cuffed hems with piping. Kids’ and teen models are drafted for the corresponding height, while the women’s versions are drafted for a height of 164–172 cm. The sewing process is the same for kids’, teen, and women’s sizes; only the length and width of the pieces differ.
The base version is made from muslin, but all patterns also work well with lightweight woven fabrics: cotton sateen, poplin, flannel, batiste, lightweight linen, and viscose wovens. Choose soft, breathable fabrics with little or no stretch.
For all models you will need:
| Materials / Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.4 m wide, long sleeve | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.35* | 1.45* | 1.45* | 1.60* | 1.60* | 1.60* | 1.75* | 1.95* | 1.95* |
| Main fabric 1.4 m wide, short sleeve | 1.05* | 1.10* | 1.10* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.45* | 1.60* | 1.60* | 1.65* |
| Interfacing 1.5 m wide | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.85* | 0.85* |
| Piping, m | 2.8 | 2.9 | 2.9 | 3.0 | 3.0 | 3.1 | 3.1 | 3.2 | 3.2 | 3.2 | 3.25 |
| Materials / Size (Height) | 74 | 80 | 86 | 92 | 98 | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.4 m wide, long sleeve | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.70* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.85* | 0.90* | 0.95* | 1.00* | 1.05* |
| Main fabric 1.4 m wide, short sleeve | 0.50* | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.70* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.85* | 0.85* |
| Interfacing 1.5 m wide | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.45* | 0.45* | 0.50* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.60* |
| Piping, m | 1.7 | 1.7 | 1.8 | 1.9 | 2.0 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.2 | 2.2 | 2.3 |
| Materials / Size (Height) | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.4 m wide, long sleeve | 1.05* | 1.15* | 1.15* | 1.20* | 1.25* |
| Main fabric 1.4 m wide, short sleeve | 0.85* | 0.90* | 0.95* | 1.00* | 1.05* |
| Interfacing 1.5 m wide | 0.65* | 0.65* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.75* |
| Piping, m | 2.4 | 2.5 | 2.6 | 2.7 | 2.7 |
| Materials / Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.4 m wide | 1.20* | 1.20* | 1.30* | 1.35* | 1.50* | 1.65* | 1.85* | 1.85* | 1.95* | 2.10* | 2.20* |
| Elastic 3 cm, cm | 50** | 53** | 56** | 59** | 62** | 65** | 68** | 71** | 74** | 78** | 82** |
| Piping, m | 0.9 | 0.9 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.1 | 1.1 | 1.1 | 1.1 | 1.2 | 1.2 |
| Materials / Size (Height) | 74 | 80 | 86 | 92 | 98 | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.4 m wide | 0.50* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.65* | 0.70* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.85* |
| Elastic 3 cm, cm | 36** | 38** | 40** | 42** | 44** | 46** | 46** | 48** | 48** | 50** |
| Piping, m | 0.6 | 0.6 | 0.6 | 0.6 | 0.7 | 0.7 | 0.7 | 0.7 | 0.7 | 0.7 |
| Materials / Size (Height) | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.4 m wide | 1.00* | 1.05* | 1.10* | 1.15* | 1.15* |
| Elastic 3 cm, cm | 50** | 52** | 54** | 56** | 58** |
| Piping, m | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 |
* Fabric requirements are given without allowances for shrinkage, pattern direction, nap, plaid/stripe matching, skewing, spacing, and other technical factors.
** Elastic length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic.
Before cutting, pre-shrink the main fabric: wash it or thoroughly steam and dry it, then press it well. Check the fabric for flaws and pay attention to the grainline direction and the print. For directional prints (for example, teddy bears), it’s especially important that the print on all pieces, cuffs, and pocket plackets is oriented in the same direction.
Lay out the pattern pieces according to the recommended layout for each pattern. Transfer all notches, pocket placement markings, front edge and lapel lines, and key match points along the armhole and neckline.
Then apply interfacing:
Clip the fusible stay tape along curved areas (neckline, front edge, lapels) so it lies smoothly without tension and does not distort the edges.
Step 1. Cutting and overall interfacing
Cut the shirt and pants pieces from the main fabric; for the shirt, also cut interfacing pieces. Always control the grainline direction and print orientation. Transfer all notches and markings. Apply interfacing to the front edges, facings, upper collar, buttonhole/button areas, shoulder seams, and neckline according to the map. Leave the under collar without interfacing.
Step 2. Preparing cuffs and the patch pocket placket (shirt)
Overlock/finish the lower edge of each sleeve cuff and the pocket placket. Press cuffs and placket in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together. Using a zipper foot, stitch the piping to the upper (open) edge of the cuff and to the upper edge of the pocket placket, sewing close to the piping cord. For directional prints, make sure the pattern on the cuffs and placket faces the same direction.
Step 3. Attaching cuffs to sleeves (shirt)
Place the cuff against the sleeve hem right sides together, matching seams and notches. Stitch the cuff in place, using the piping seam as a guide so the piping shows evenly on the right side. Press seam allowances toward the cuff. Leave the cuff unfolded — the cuff seam will be joined later together with the sleeve seam.
Step 4. Making the patch pocket (shirt)
Place the pocket placket and pocket piece right sides together along the top edge and stitch, sewing into the piping seam. Press seam allowances toward the placket. Fold the placket along the pressed line to the pocket right side, sew the short ends with a 1 cm seam, turn right side out, shape corners, and press. Secure the lower edge of the placket with a topstitch: either in the seam ditch or 0.1 cm away from it. Press the side and bottom pocket edges to the wrong side by 1 cm.
Step 5. Front preparation and setting sleeves (shirt)
Using the front pattern piece, mark the pocket placement on the left front. Position the prepared pocket, aligning the pressed edges with the marked lines, pin or baste, and topstitch along the sides and bottom with a 0.1 cm topstitch, backstitching at the start and end. Then place fronts and back right sides together and sew the shoulder seams with a 1 cm seam allowance; press seam allowances toward the back. Set sleeves into the open armholes: match sleeve cap notches to the shoulder seam and armhole notches, stitch the sleeve in, finish seam allowances, and press toward the sleeve.
Step 6. Side seams, sleeve seams, and cuff finishing (shirt)
Fold the garment right sides together, matching side seams and sleeve seams. Sew side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous 1 cm seam, matching the sleeve insertion seam and notches. During this operation, sew cuff edges while they are still unfolded. Finish seam allowances and press toward the back. Fold cuffs to the right side along the pressed line; turn the inner cuff edge under so it covers the cuff attachment seam. Pin or baste and stitch in the ditch of the cuff attachment seam to secure the inner edge. Optionally add a topstitch 0.1 cm from the cuff edge.
Step 7. Piped collar (shirt)
Add piping to the upper (interfaced) collar: stitch piping along the upper edge, stopping about 1 cm before the lower corners to keep seam allowance for attaching the collar to the neckline. Using a zipper foot, stitch close to the piping cord. Place upper and under collar right sides together, match notches, and stitch the upper edge and outer collar edge, sewing into the piping seam. Tuck piping ends into the seam allowances between collar layers. Clip curves, trim corners slightly, turn the collar right side out, shape it, and press, rolling the seam slightly toward the under collar.
Step 8. Attaching the collar to the neckline (shirt)
Place the under collar against the garment neckline right sides together. Match notches at center back and lapel line to the corresponding markings on the collar. Stitch the collar into the neckline from the notch on one lapel to the notch on the other with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish and press seam allowances toward the neckline. Press the collar area again if needed.
Step 9. Facings and lapels (shirt)
Stitch piping to the facing along the front edge and lapel, extending the ends into the seam allowances near the collar-attachment notches. Finish the inner edges of the facings. Place front edges and facings right sides together, matching notches, shoulder seams, and the lapel break point. Sew the front edge to the facing, stitching into the piping seam from the hem up to the collar-attachment notch. Clip curves, trim corners. Turn right side out, carefully shape the lapels, and press, forming a neat piped edge along the front. Secure the top edge of each facing with a few hand stitches to the shoulder seam allowances. For kids’ versions, you may finish the right facing fully and the left only in the lapel area, or finish both fully if the shirt is intended to be worn open.
Step 10. Finishing the shirt hem
Finish the lower edge and press it. Mark the hem fold line according to the pattern and press the hem to the wrong side. Fold the facing hem so its edge does not show on the right side. Topstitch along the hem fold edge across the entire length of the shirt.
Step 11. Buttonholes and buttons (shirt)
Mark buttonhole and button placement from the front pattern piece. Work buttonholes (horizontal or vertical) on the right front precisely on the marked lines. Sew buttons on the left front, ensuring the fronts meet evenly without twisting. Kids’ and teen shirts usually need 3–5 buttons; the women’s version needs 5–6 depending on the garment length.
Step 12. Final pressing of the shirt
Press the finished shirt carefully: front edges, lapels, collar, cuffs, shoulder and side seams, and sleeve seams. Use a pressing cloth to avoid flattening the piping and to prevent shine on the fabric.
Step 13. Pants side seams
Place the front and back pant legs right sides together and sew the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish seam allowances and press toward the back. At this stage, it’s convenient to check the pants length again and adjust if needed.
Step 14. Piped cuffs and inseams (pants)
Prepare the cuffs: finish the lower edge of each cuff and press the pieces in half lengthwise. Using a zipper foot, stitch piping to the upper edge of the cuff. Place the cuff against the pant hem right sides together, match seams and notches, and stitch, using the piping seam as a guide. Press seam allowances toward the cuff. Then fold each pant leg right sides together and sew the inseam, matching the cuff attachment seams. During this operation, sew cuff edges while the cuffs are still unfolded. Finish inseam allowances and press toward the back. Fold cuffs to the right side along the pressed line, turn the inner edge to the inside, and secure it by stitching in the ditch of the cuff attachment seam, as done on the shirt.
Step 15. Seat seam (pants)
Turn one pant leg right side out and leave the other inside out. Insert one leg into the other, placing pieces right sides together; match inseams and notches along the seat seam. Sew the seat seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, finish seam allowances, and press them to one side (right or left).
Step 16. Elastic waistband (pants)
Cut elastic to the required length according to the chart and individual measurements, then join it into a loop. Mark four quarter points on the elastic (the join, the opposite point, and two midpoints). Match them to the center back seam, center front seam, and side seams of the pants, and pin from the wrong side. Finish/overlock the pants upper edge together with the elastic while stretching it; on the serger, work without the knife so you don’t cut the elastic width. Then fold the upper edge with elastic to the wrong side along the notches, forming the grown-on waistband. Stretching the elastic, stitch the fold down with a straight stitch all the way around. The finished waistband forms even, soft gathers without bulky buildup.
Step 17. Final pressing of the pants and the set
Press the seat seam, inseams, side seams, cuffs, and waistband, avoiding overheating the elastic. Make sure the piping at the pant hems stays rounded and neat. After the final press, the shirt and pants form a finished pajama set that can be worn as loungewear or cozy sleepwear.