The children’s blouse made with pattern 1056 is a light, romantic style for girls. The garment is sewn from thin woven fabric, has a loose silhouette, a horizontal seam above the waist with an attached ruffle, and a second ruffle at the hem. The armholes, neckline, and the back “keyhole” opening are finished with bias binding; at the back there is a small neckline closure with a button.
The shorts made with pattern 1067 are a simple and comfortable option for children. These are shorts with a grown-on elastic waistband, pockets in the side seams, and a hem finished with a turned-up hem. The model is designed for non-stretch woven fabrics of medium weight and pairs perfectly with blouse 1056, creating a versatile summer set for girls.
This workshop is suitable both for sewing the full set (blouse + shorts) and for sewing each item separately.
| Item | 74 | 80 | 86 | 92 | 98 | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, 1.5 m width | 0.35* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.45* | 0.45* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.65* |
* fabric consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, pattern direction, nap, checks/stripes, skewing, gaps, and other production losses
** elastic length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic
| Item | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, 1.5 m width | 0.40* | 0.50* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.70* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.85* |
| Elastic for waist, cm | 47** | 46** | 47** | 48** | 49** | 50** | 52** | 54** | 56** | 58** |
* fabric consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, skewing, gaps, and other production losses
** elastic length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic
Before cutting, обязательно pre-shrink your fabric: wash it or steam-press it with an iron according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, dry it, and press it. Check the fabric for defects and pay attention to the direction of the print and nap (if any).
When laying out the pattern pieces for blouse 1056 and shorts 1067, follow the grainline marked on each piece. Transfer all notches to the fabric: the seam line and ruffle attachment points on the blouse, pocket placement points on the shorts, front and back centers, and the inseam and side seam lines.
If the fabric is very soft or frays easily, the back keyhole area of the blouse and the top edge of the shorts can be additionally reinforced with thin fusible tape along the edge within the seam allowance. Apply interfacing according to the interfacing plan included in the technical documentation for the patterns.
Step 1. Cut from the main fabric the front and back bodice pieces, the lower front and back pieces (panels), two ruffles, and four bias-binding strips to finish the armholes, neckline, and back keyhole opening. If desired, instead of binding made from eyelet/embroidered fabric, prepare separate bias binding from a smooth fabric: cut bias strips and press them lengthwise in half, folding raw edges to the inside.
Step 2. Place the front and back bodice right sides together and sew the shoulder seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Overlock/finish the seam allowances together and press them toward the back.
Step 3. Finish the back keyhole opening with bias binding. Place the binding right sides together with the slit edge, stitch 0.5 cm from the edge, slightly easing the binding around curves. Then fold the binding to the wrong side, creating a tiny roll of the main fabric (about 0.1 cm) to the right side, and topstitch along the binding edge at 0.1 cm, securing the seam allowances. Fold the binding ends at the bottom of the keyhole to the inside and neatly cover the raw edge.
Step 4. Finish the front and back neckline with bias binding the same way: first stitch the binding with a 0.5 cm seam allowance, then turn it to the wrong side, form a small roll, and topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Use the remaining two binding pieces for the armholes: stitch the binding to the armhole edge, turn it to the wrong side, and topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge to create a neat narrow finish.
Step 5. Create a small back neckline closure. While finishing the neckline, fold the short open ends of the binding to the inside so they cover the raw edge, and stitch them in place to form a neat edge for the button and the thread loop, which will be made at the end.
Step 6. Place the front and back blouse pieces right sides together and sew the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances together and press them toward the back. At the transition from the side seam into the armhole, leave a small “tail” of overlock thread, pull it toward the back, place the allowance toward the back, and secure it with a short bar tack at the armhole. Only then trim the excess tail—this keeps the armhole neat and prevents the overlock from unraveling.
Step 7. Place the lower front and back panels right sides together and sew the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances and press them open or toward the back.
Step 8. Close each ruffle into a ring, sew the short edges with a 1 cm seam allowance, and press the seam allowances open. Finish the lower edges of the ruffles, press them to the inside by the hem allowance, and stitch a straight hem. Along the upper edge of each ruffle, sew two parallel gathering stitches using a longer stitch length to create an even gather later.
Step 9. Gather one ruffle along the basting threads to match the length of the lower edge of the panel, distributing the gathers evenly. Place the ruffle right sides together with the right side of the panel along the lower edge, matching the ruffle seam to the panel side seam, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances, direct them upward onto the panel, and press. Carefully remove the gathering threads.
Step 10. Gather the second ruffle to match the length of the upper edge of the panel (the seam line). With the panel right side up, place the ruffle right side down on the panel so its upper edge aligns with the seam line, and stitch the ruffle onto the panel about 0.8 cm from the raw edge. Then place the bodice and the panel right sides together along this line and join them with a 1 cm seam allowance, catching the upper ruffle between the layers. Finish the seam allowances and press them upward toward the bodice.
Step 11. From the bodice side (front and back), topstitch 0.1 cm from the seam that joins the bodice to the panel, securing the seam allowances. If desired, you can also topstitch the seam where the lower ruffle is attached to the panel to keep it in place.
Step 12. Make a thread loop at the back neckline (by hand or with a machine buttonhole) and sew on the button on the opposite side. Check armhole symmetry and the evenness of gathers on both ruffles, and give the blouse a final press. The garment is ready.
Step 13. Cut the front and back shorts pieces from the main fabric, and also cut four pocket bag pieces. Transfer all notches marking pocket placement, waistline, hemline, and inseam lines.
Step 14. Place one pocket bag piece right sides together with the side edge of the front piece and one with the side edge of the back piece, aligning notches. Stitch the pocket bags with a straight stitch, backstitching at the beginning and end of each seam.
Step 15. On the front pieces, clip the side edge along the seam allowance up to the backstitches to open the pocket entry. Fold the pocket bag away from the front and finish the pocket opening edge together with the seam allowance. Then turn the seam allowance from the front onto the pocket bag and topstitch 0.1–0.2 cm from the fold, forming a neat pocket opening edge.
Step 16. Place the front and back pieces right sides together, folding the pocket bags away from the side seam. Sew the side seam from the hem upward to the backstitches with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the back.
Step 17. Fold the pocket bags away from the side seam and place them right sides together. Stitch the pocket bags to each other around the pocket contour and finish the seam allowances. The finished pocket should sit in the side seam, lie flat inside the shorts, and not pull the side seam out of shape.
Step 18. Finish the raw hem edges of the legs. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side to the desired width so it will be easier to stitch later. If desired, baste the hem in place temporarily.
Step 19. Place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew the inseams with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the back pieces. Then fold the shorts so the inseams align and sew the crotch seam from front to back with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the crotch seam allowances and press them to one side.
Step 20. Turn up the hems along the pressed line and stitch a straight seam around, aligning with the folded edge. Press the hems.
Step 21. Prepare the elastic for the waistband: cut a piece of elastic about 4 cm wide to match the child’s waist measurement (see the table for an approximate length). Sew the short ends of the elastic into a ring. Secure the pocket bags to the front pieces with pins or basting so they don’t shift while attaching the waistband.
Step 22. Place the elastic against the top edge of the shorts on the wrong side, matching the elastic seam with one of the shorts seams (for example, a side seam or the crotch seam) to avoid extra bulk. Stretching the elastic, pin it in at least four evenly spaced points. Attach the elastic to the top edge using an overlocker/serger (without the knife), stretching evenly under the presser foot.
Step 23. Fold the elastic upward so it completely covers the finished top edge of the shorts. Stitch along the lower edge of the elastic, stretching it as you sew so it doesn’t twist and lies evenly all around.
Step 24. Fold the elastic again toward the waistband so its top edge aligns with the waistline. Using this edge as a guide, sew an additional line of stitching along the top edge of the elastic, again stretching slightly. While stitching, make sure the needle passes below the pins holding the pocket bags; remove the pins after sewing. This way the pocket bags will be securely held under the waistband and won’t pop out.
Step 25. Carefully press the crotch seam, side seams, inseams, the elastic waistband line, and the hems, avoiding overstretching the elastic with the iron. Check the symmetry of the leg lengths and the quality of the pocket finishing. The children’s set – blouse pattern 1056 and shorts pattern 1067 – is ready for fitting and wearing.