The dress made with pattern 1068 is designed for girls and is sewn from lightweight woven fabric. The style has a waist seam with a gathered skirt; the front skirt panel is slightly shorter than the back, creating an interesting silhouette. Decorative flutter sleeves are sewn into the armholes, and double ruffles made from the main and contrast fabrics are attached to the hem.
Back waist ties allow you to tie the dress at the back and gently shape the waist. The back also features a placket with a button or snap closure. The neckline is finished with bias tape, creating a neat, narrow edging along the cut edge.
Pattern 1068 — girls’ dress
Required notions: buttons — 4 pcs.
| Item | 74 | 80 | 86 | 92 | 98 | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (1.5 m width) | 0.80* | 0.85* | 0.90* | 0.95* | 1.00* | 1.05* | 1.10* | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.30* |
| Contrast/trim fabric (1.5 m width) | 0.30* | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.45* | 0.45* | 0.45* |
| Fusible interfacing (1.5 m width) | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.30* | 0.30* | 0.30* | 0.30* |
* yardage is given without allowances for shrinkage, print direction, nap, plaid/stripes matching, skew, gaps, and other cutting/sewing losses;
** the length of elastic tape (if used) is approximate and depends on the elastic’s density and stretch.
Before cutting, pre-shrink both the main and contrast fabrics: wash or steam-press with plenty of steam, let them dry completely, and press thoroughly. Inspect the fabric for defects and pay attention to print direction and nap (if any).
When laying out the pattern pieces for pattern 1068, strictly follow the grainline marked on each piece. Transfer all notches to the fabric: the waistline, the positions for attaching the flutter sleeves at the armholes, the placement points for joining the skirts to the bodice, the hemline, as well as the outlines and notches for the back placket.
The back placket piece must be reinforced with lightweight fusible interfacing, aligned with the grain. After fusing, press the placket along the notches (fold lines) and finish (overlock/serge) the free outer edge. Reinforce other areas (for example, the neckline) according to the interfacing layout included in the technical documentation.
Step 1. Cut the bodice front and back (above the waist) from the main fabric, as well as the front and back skirt pieces, the upper flutter-sleeve layers for the armholes, and the upper hem ruffle. From the contrast fabric, cut the lower flutter-sleeve layers and the lower hem ruffle. Cut the back placket (allowing for interfacing) and, if needed, bias strips cut on the bias for making bias tape.
Step 2. Fuse the interfacing to the back placket. Press the placket along the notches (fold lines) to form its width, and finish (overlock/serge) the free outer edge. Set the placket aside until the neckline-finishing stage.
Step 3. Place the bodice front and back right sides together and sew the shoulder seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances together and press them toward the back.
Step 4. Prepare the flutter sleeves. Finish the lower (free) edge of the upper and lower layers using a method you prefer: a rolled hem, a narrow turned hem with topstitching, or overlocking/serging followed by edge topstitching. Along the curved (upper) edge of each flutter sleeve, sew two parallel rows of long basting stitches for gathering.
Step 5. Layer one upper and one lower flutter sleeve together with right sides facing outward, matching the curved edges. Pull the basting threads on both layers at the same time to create an even gather along the full length. The gathered length must match the armhole section between the notches. Prepare the second flutter sleeve for the other armhole in the same way.
Step 6. Pin the gathered flutter sleeves to the bodice armholes on the right side, matching notches and aligning the flutter-sleeve seams with the shoulder and side seams. Stitch the flutter sleeves in place with a 1 cm seam allowance from notch to notch, catching both layers at once. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the inside of the garment. If desired, you can gather the upper and lower layers separately for extra volume.
Step 7. Prepare the skirt. Place the front and back skirt pieces right sides together and sew the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the back. If the front skirt has a shaped hem or a shorter cut, follow the notches and markings on the pattern pieces.
Step 8. Along the top edge of the front skirt, sew two parallel rows of long basting stitches. Pull the threads to match the length of the lower edge of the bodice front, distributing the gathers evenly. Repeat for the top edge of the back skirt, pulling the threads to match the lower edge of the bodice back.
Step 9. With right sides together, pin the front skirt to the bodice front, matching side seams, centers, and waist notches. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances and press them up toward the bodice. Remove the basting threads. Attach the back skirt to the bodice back in the same way.
Step 10. Cut two waist ties to be tied at the back (length depends on the desired bow size). Fold each tie lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long edge and one short edge. Turn the ties right side out, shape the corners, and press well.
Step 11. Pin the ties to the dress at the waist seam with the seam facing downward: approximately at the side seams or slightly toward the back. Secure the ties with a short row of stitching along the waist seam. Then place the dress front and back right sides together and sew the side seams in one continuous seam from the armhole to the skirt hem. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the back.
Step 12. To finish the armholes, turn the seam allowance to the wrong side by about 1 cm, catching the flutter-sleeve edge. Arrange the flutter sleeves and seam allowances neatly to the inside and topstitch around the armhole about 0.5 cm from the edge. This secures the flutter sleeves and finishes the armhole edge at the same time.
Step 13. Prepare the hem ruffles. With right sides together, sew the side seams of the upper ruffle (main fabric) with a 1 cm seam allowance, then finish and press the seam allowances. Sew the lower ruffle (contrast fabric) the same way. Finish the lower edges of both ruffles using the same method as for the flutter sleeves: rolled hem, narrow turned hem, or overlock/serge plus topstitching.
Step 14. Layer the upper and lower ruffles together with right sides facing outward, matching side seams and top edges. Sew two parallel rows of long basting stitches along the top edge. Pull the threads to gather evenly around the full circumference until the ruffle matches the dress hem. For a fuller look, you can gather and attach the upper and lower ruffles separately, one after another.
Step 15. Pin the double ruffle to the dress hem, right sides together, matching side seams. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances and press them up toward the dress. Optionally, topstitch on the dress 0.1 cm from the seam to secure the seam allowances and direct the gathers downward.
Step 16. Move on to the neckline and back placket. Place the fused placket and the back bodice right sides together, aligning the placket’s inner edge with the center-back line according to the notches. Place the bias tape right side to the garment along the neckline, matching the neckline center and shoulder seams. Stitch the bias tape with a 0.5 cm seam allowance all the way around the neckline, catching both the placket and the neckline edge.
Step 17. Turn the placket to the wrong side and neatly form the upper corners. Trim any loose threads if needed. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side, forming a slight roll of the main fabric to the right side (about 0.1 cm). Lay the bias tape smoothly along the neckline and topstitch along its edge about 0.1 cm from the edge, securing the seam allowances inside. Press the neckline and placket thoroughly.
Step 18. Mark buttonholes (or snap positions) on the back placket. Place the first buttonhole about 1.5 cm from the top edge of the placket, centered. Plan the last buttonhole about 5–6 cm above the waistline. Divide the distance between the first and last marks into equal sections and add 1–2 more buttonholes (depending on the child’s height/size) so the closure looks proportionate.
Step 19. Sew the machine buttonholes according to the markings and sew the buttons onto the opposite side of the placket. If using snaps, install them at the same points following the hardware manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 20. Do the final pressing: press the shoulder, side, and waist seams, the armholes, the placket, and the hem with ruffles, shaping a soft, even gather on the flutter sleeves and ruffles. Tie the waist ties at the back, gently shaping the waist. The garment made with pattern 1068 is ready for fitting and wearing.