Women’s dress from pattern 3191 is a comfortable everyday shirt dress. The model is designed for height 164–172 cm and sizes 42–62. The silhouette flares toward the hem, the shoulder line is dropped, and the sleeve hem features cuff bands that create the look of a short sleeve.
Convenient pockets are placed in the side seams. The front closure is buttoned, with a cut-on (integrated) placket and a separate facing in the lapel area. The collar is a stand-and-turn-down collar without a separate stand, forming a nice see-through neckline with lapels. Belt loops and a separate belt are provided at the waist, so the dress can be worn loose or cinched to accent the waist.
Required notions: buttons — 8 pcs.
| Item | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.5 m wide | 2.10* | 2.20* | 2.20* | 2.25* | 2.25* | 2.25* | 2.70* | 2.70* | 2.75* | 2.75* | 2.80* |
| Interfacing 1.5 m wide | 0.65* | 0.65* | 0.65* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.70* |
* Fabric consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, skewing, gaps, and other technological losses.
Before cutting, the fabric must be pre-shrunk: wash or steam-press it, dry it, and straighten it along the grainline. Check the fabric for defects, the direction of the print, and, if needed, the placement of stripes/checks.
Using the recommended layout, cut from the main fabric: front pieces with a cut-on placket, back (one piece or with a center seam — depending on the pattern), collar (upper and under collar), facings, cuff bands, 4 pocket bags, a strip for belt loops, and a strip for the belt. Transfer all notches from the pattern to the fabric (center back, waistline, pocket placement, end of the closure, collar insertion notches, and belt loop positions).
From the fusible interfacing, cut pieces according to the interfacing plan included with the pattern: strips to reinforce the front edge and cut-on placket (only down to the end of the closure), part of the facing in the button/buttonhole area, and one layer of the collar (most often the under collar). Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side without stretching the fabric, keeping the grain direction.
Step 1. Cutting and interfacing.
Check that all pattern pieces are present and that paired pieces are cut (fronts, pocket bags, cuff bands). The front edges, cut-on plackets in the closure area, part of the facing, and the collar should already be interfaced. Trim loose threads after fusing and press the pieces again using a press cloth.
Step 2. Preparing the cut-on placket and facing.
On each front piece, find the fold line of the cut-on placket along the front edge. From the wrong side, press the outer edge of the placket under by 1 cm. Then fold the placket inward along the fold line so the overlocked or pressed edge is inside, and press the fold. At the bottom, align the pressed hem of the dress with the placket to form a neat corner. Prepare the facings separately: overlock their inner edges or press them to the wrong side by 1 cm; at the top, transfer the lapel outline and the fold-line notch from the pattern.
Step 3. Attaching pocket bags to the side seams.
Mark the pocket opening notches on the side edges of the front and back pieces. Place one pocket bag to each front and back piece right sides together, matching the notches. Stitch the pocket bags with a 1 cm seam allowance from notch to notch, securing at the beginning and end. Overlock the seam allowances together, leaving long thread “tails” on both ends — they will help to hide the overlock neatly.
Step 4. Sewing the side seams with pockets.
Place the front and back pieces right sides together, matching side edges and pocket notches. Stitch the side seam with a 1 cm seam allowance: from the armhole to the upper notch, then from the lower notch down to the hem, securing at the notches. In the pocket area, spread the seam allowances at the pocket bags, place the pocket bags right sides together, and stitch from notch to notch with a 1 cm seam allowance to form the pocket bag.
Next, overlock the side seam edge together with the pocket bag in one pass: start at the bottom of the side seam and work upward. When you reach the pocket opening, slightly open the seam allowances, catch the previously left “tail” under the stitching, overlock around the pocket bag edge, and continue overlocking above the pocket opening. Pull the overlock thread ends to the wrong side, thread them into the stitching, and only then trim. Press the pockets and side seams, directing the seam allowances toward the back. Repeat on the other side.
Step 5. Sewing the shoulder seams.
Place the front pieces and back right sides together at the shoulder edges. Stitch the shoulders with a 1 cm seam allowance. Overlock the seam allowances and press them toward the back. Lightly steam-press the shoulder seams so they lie flat and do not pull at the armhole.
Step 6. Shaping the lapel and attaching the facing.
On the front pieces, locate the lapel fold-line notch. Place the facing and the front piece right sides together, matching the front edges, notches, and upper edge. Stitch the facing to the front with a 1 cm seam allowance from the hem up to the lapel notch, securing exactly at the fold point. At the corner between the front edge and lapel, carefully clip the seam allowance of the main piece almost to the stitching (leave 1–2 mm uncut) so the corner turns smoothly.
While stitching, ease the facing slightly along the front edge (about 1–2 mm) so a neat roll (turn of cloth) forms on the right side. Turn the facing to the wrong side, form a small roll of about 0.1 cm, baste the front edges and lapels, carefully shaping the corners, then press. Recheck the inner edge of the facing: it should be either overlocked or pressed under by 1 cm.
Step 7. Making the collar.
Place the upper and under collar right sides together, matching notches and corners. Along the outer edge, ease the upper collar slightly relative to the under collar (1–2 mm) so after turning, the under collar has a small roll. Stitch the collar along the outer contour with a 1 cm seam allowance, stopping about 1 cm before the neckline seam line on each end. Trim seam allowances at corners diagonally; clip curves without cutting the stitching.
Turn the collar right side out, carefully shape the corners, and press, forming the roll toward the under collar. Along the lower collar edge (to be set into the neckline), sew a temporary helper stitch 0.5 cm from the edge through both layers — this makes insertion easier.
Step 8. Setting the collar into the neckline and finishing the front edge.
On the dress neckline, locate the center-back notch, shoulder seam notches, and the lapel start points. Place the collar to the neckline with the under collar to the right side of the back, matching notches. Pin or baste from center back to the lapel transition points.
Place the facings on top, aligning them with the front pieces right sides together along the front edge and neckline and matching all notches. Stitch the neckline from one lapel edge to the other with a 1 cm seam allowance, catching the collar between the layers. Clip seam allowances at turns and near shoulder seams so the neckline lies without tension. Overlock the neckline edge.
Turn the facings to the wrong side, form a clean edge along the front and lapel; if needed, baste again and press. You may further secure the collar seam allowances by stitching on the collar at 0.1 cm, catching the seam allowances inside. At the shoulders, fold the inner facing edge onto the shoulder seam allowances and press so the facing doesn’t creep into the armhole. Below the lapel line, finish the cut-on plackets: fold them inward along the fold line to cover the overlocked edge, press, and topstitch along the front edge 0.1–0.2 cm from the edge.
Step 9. Hemming the dress.
Overlock the hem edge all around. Measure the hem allowance (about 2–3 cm; follow the notches in the technical documentation) and press the hem to the wrong side. Where the hem meets the front edge, reduce bulk by trimming seam allowances slightly. If desired, baste the hem to prevent shifting. Topstitch the hem on the right side, following the folded line.
Step 10. Cuff bands at the sleeve hem.
In this design, the cuff bands create a short sleeve on the dropped shoulder line. Each cuff is a ring that is set into the armhole.
Press the cuff strip (interfaced if needed) lengthwise in half with wrong sides together. Then fold the cuff in half crosswise, right sides together, and stitch the short ends with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam open. Fold the ring lengthwise again, matching raw edges, and press.
Turn the dress inside out. Insert the cuff into the armhole so the cuff seam aligns with the side seam, and the raw edges of the cuff and armhole are even. Place pieces right sides together and stitch around with a 1 cm seam allowance. Overlock the seam allowances together and press them toward the dress. Optionally, secure the cuff with a decorative topstitch on the right side, 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam.
Step 11. Belt loops and belt.
For belt loops, cut a long strip 3–4 cm wide. Fold it lengthwise in thirds or in half: first fold the long edges to the center, then fold again and topstitch along the center at 0.1 cm, securing all layers. Cut the loops to about 6–7 cm in length.
Check belt loop placement on the pattern pieces — typically at the waistline along the side seams; optionally add loops closer to the center front or back. Pin the lower ends of the loops to the waistline with the right side to the garment and stitch. Fold the upper ends under by 1 cm, turn the loops upward, and topstitch them to form “tunnels” for the belt.
Cut the belt to the needed length (waist measurement plus extra for tying) and width (twice the finished width plus seam allowances). Fold the belt lengthwise right sides together, stitch the long edge and one short edge with a 1 cm seam allowance, trim corners, turn right side out, shape the ends well, and press. Optionally, topstitch around the belt.
Step 12. Buttonholes, buttons, and final pressing.
Mark buttonhole positions along the front edges using the technical drawing and your fitting. The top buttonhole is usually placed near the neckline; the bottom one — above the waistline so the belt doesn’t cover the buttons. Distribute the remaining buttonholes evenly between them. Sew machine buttonholes along the marked lines.
On the opposite front edge, align with the buttonholes and sew on 8 buttons. Give the dress a final press: front edges, lapels, collar, cuffs, waist area with belt loops, and hem. The dress from pattern 3191 is ready — wear it loose or with the belt, adjusting the amount of shaping at the waist.