This tutorial works for two patterns:
Both models are designed in the same style. They are tapered-leg trousers with a separate (set-in) waistband and elastic at the back. On the front — pockets with a pocket facing and a zip fly closure. On the back — a yoke and jeans-style patch pockets. The trousers can be sewn as a standalone item or as part of a set with jackets 1034 (for children) and 1038 (for teens).
For trousers made with patterns 1035 and 1039, dense non-stretch fabrics are recommended:
It’s best to choose a fabric that holds its shape well but isn’t too thick, so the yoke, waistband, and fly seams don’t become overly bulky.
Interfacing:
Notions:
| Materials / Size (height) | 74 | 80 | 86 | 92 | 98 | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (150 cm width) | 0.45* | 0.50* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.65* | 0.70* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.85* |
| Main fabric (150 cm width) for a set with jacket 1034 | 0.85* | 0.95* | 1.00* | 1.05* | 1.15* | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.35* | 1.35* | 1.50* |
| Fusible interfacing (150 cm width) | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* |
| Elastic 3 cm, cm | 17** | 17** | 18** | 18** | 19** | 20** | 21** | 22** | 23** | 24** |
* material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, pattern direction, nap, plaids/stripes, skew, gaps and other technical losses
** elastic length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic
| Materials / Size (height) | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (150 cm width) | 0.85* | 0.90* | 0.95* | 1.00* | 1.10* |
| Main fabric (150 cm width) for a set with jacket 1038 | 1.65* | 1.70* | 1.80* | 1.90* | 2.05* |
| Fusible interfacing (150 cm width) | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* | 0.10* |
| Elastic 3 cm, m | 0.24** | 0.26** | 0.28** | 0.30** | 0.32** |
* material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, pattern direction, nap, plaids/stripes, skew, gaps and other technical losses
** elastic length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic
Before cutting, be sure to pre-shrink the fabric (wash or steam-press thoroughly), then dry and press it. Check the fabric for defects, and note the direction of the print and nap (especially for corduroy and napped fabrics).
Cut the pieces from the main fabric (and, if needed, lining fabric for pocket bags) strictly along the grain, using the lengthwise grainline marked on the pattern pieces. Transfer all notches, balance marks, and pocket placement lines to the cut pieces.
Cut and fuse interfacing to the following parts:
Step 1. Back pieces: yoke and pocket placement markings
Using the back-leg pattern piece, transfer the outline of the patch pocket onto the fabric: mark the lines and corner points so you can place the pocket symmetrically. Place the yoke on the back piece right sides together, match the notches, and stitch along the yoke seam with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the yoke. Topstitch the yoke seam with one or two rows of stitching to secure the allowances (first row 0.1 cm from the seam, second row 0.5 cm from the first, optional).
Step 2. Back patch pockets
Finish the top edge of the patch pockets. Press the pocket top to the wrong side along the notches. Fold the pressed edge right sides together with the pocket along the fold line and stitch the short side edges of the hem with a 1 cm seam allowance. Turn the hem to the right side, neatly square the corners, and press the pocket top. Optionally press the side and bottom seam allowances (1 cm). Topstitch the top edge of the pocket along the hem edge.
Place the pockets on the back pieces according to the markings, matching the pocket corners to the reference points. Turn under the side and bottom edges and stitch the pocket around the perimeter at 0.1 cm from the edge, starting and ending with bar tacks at the top.
Step 3. Front pockets
Reinforce the pocket opening on the front piece with fusible stay tape along the grain, clipping the tape at curves so it lies flat without tension. Place the pocket bag right sides together with the front piece and stitch along the pocket opening with a 1 cm seam allowance. Clip the seam allowance in the curved areas.
Press the seam allowances toward the pocket bag and stitch a securing line on the pocket bag 0.1 cm from the seam to create a clean roll of the main fabric to the inside. Press the pocket bag to the wrong side. Topstitch along the pocket opening 0.5 cm from the edge.
Place the pocket facing right sides together with the pocket bag and stitch, aligning the edges. Then baste the pocket bag with facing to the front piece along the side seam and top edge (about 0.5 cm from the edge) so the pocket doesn’t shift during assembly.
Step 4. Back assembly: crotch seam and back waistband
Place the back pieces right sides together and stitch the crotch seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching the yoke seams. Finish the seam allowances and press to one side (for pattern 1035 — toward the left back piece; for 1039 you can follow the same). Topstitch along the crotch seam to secure the allowances (0.1 cm from the seam line).
Finish one long edge of the back waistband. Fold the waistband in half wrong sides together and press. Place the waistband on the upper edge of the back trousers right sides together and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches. Press the seam allowances toward the waistband and secure the inner waistband by stitching “in the ditch” of the waistband seam (or as close to it as possible).
Step 5. Front preparation: fly shield, fly facing, and zipper
Finish the crotch seam edges on the front pieces. Finish the raw edges of the fly shield. Place the fly shield on the left front piece right sides together and stitch along the crotch line with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances toward the fly shield and secure with a line of stitching 0.1 cm from the seam on the fly shield. Press the fly shield to the wrong side of the left front piece, forming a slight roll to the inside.
Fold the fly facing in half wrong sides together and finish the long and bottom edges. Place the zipper on the fly shield, aligning the lower and side edges, and stitch the zipper to the fly shield. Then place the fly facing with the attached zipper on the right front piece right sides together and stitch with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances toward the right front piece.
Lay the left front over the right so that the fly shield covers the zipper-attachment seam by 0.2–0.3 cm. Holding this overlap, fold the left front away, pin the zipper to the fly shield (not catching the fly facing), and stitch the zipper to the fly shield with a second line of stitching.
Step 6. Front crotch seam and fly topstitching
Place the front pieces right sides together and stitch the crotch seam (front rise) with a 1 cm seam allowance, ending 1 cm above the lower edge of the fly shield. On the right side, mark the topstitching line that follows the shape of the fly shield/fly facing, starting 1 cm above its lower edge. Fold the fly facing away, secure the fly shield to the left front, and topstitch along the marked line. Press the crotch seam allowances.
Align the lower edges of the fly facing and fly shield and secure with a short bar tack. Optionally, add a topstitch along the front crotch seam, starting 1 cm above the fly topstitching line.
Step 7. Front waistband
Finish one long edge of the front waistband. Fold the waistband in half along the notches, wrong sides together, and press. Unzip the zipper. Place the waistband on the upper edge of the front trousers right sides together, matching the center front and side seam notches. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance.
Fold the waistband along the pressed line right sides together and stitch the short ends with a 1 cm seam allowance. On the fly side, trim the allowances to 1 cm and cut off any excess zipper length. Turn the waistband right side out and square the corners. Press the waistband seam allowances upward toward the waistband. Turn the lower edge of the inner waistband to the inside so it overlaps the waistband seam by 1–2 mm, then secure later with “stitch in the ditch” or with a line of stitching 0.1 cm from the seam.
Step 8. Join front and back, inseams
Cut the elastic to the required length (according to the table or individual measurements) and insert it into the back waistband, distributing the tension evenly. Secure the elastic at the side seams with short bar tacks.
Place the front and back trousers right sides together and stitch the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches and waistband seams. Finish and press the seam allowances toward the back. Then match the front and back crotch seams and stitch the inseams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish and press the seam allowances toward the back leg. Turn the trousers right side out.
Secure the inner edge of the front waistband by stitching in the waistband seam (or as close to it as possible), at the same time enclosing the elastic in the back waistband and joining all layers.
Step 9. Hem finishing
Finish the raw edges of the trouser hems. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side (fold width as specified on the pattern). Topstitch the hem, stitching close to the folded edge. Optionally, for heavy denim you can sew a classic jeans hem with double topstitching.
Step 10. Buttonhole and button
Using the waistband pattern piece or fitting, mark the placement for the buttonhole and button: the buttonhole is on the overlapping waistband side (usually the left for children’s trousers), and the button is on the opposite side. Sew the buttonhole and attach the button securely.
Step 11. Pressing and final fitting
Press all seams carefully, paying special attention to:
Do a final fitting: check the length, waist and hip fit, rise depth, and inseam comfort. If necessary, adjust the waist slightly by changing the elastic tension at the back. After final pressing, the trousers made with patterns 1035 and 1039 are completely ready to wear.