The women’s vest made with pattern 3195 is a clean, basic lined piece that pairs beautifully with trousers, skirts, and dresses. The silhouette is semi-fitted thanks to princess seams that extend from the armhole on the front and back. The back features a decorative waist belt at the waistline, which emphasizes the figure without constricting it.
The vest has a button front closure, a V-neck with lapels, and a neat neckline finished with facings. The design is intended for women’s sizes 42–62 and heights 164–172 cm. The vest can be worn on its own or as part of a set with other garments (for example, a skirt or trousers from the collection).
For sewing women’s vest 3195, the following are recommended:
Required notions:
Pattern 3195 — women’s vest
| Material / Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (width 1.5 m) | 1.05* | 1.05* | 1.05* | 1.05* | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.40* | 1.40* | 1.40* |
| Lining (width 1.5 m) | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* |
| Interfacing (width 1.5 m) | 0.85* | 0.85* | 0.85* | 0.85* | 0.85* | 0.90* | 0.90* | 0.90* | 0.95* | 1.05* | 1.20* |
* material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, skew, gaps, and other technical losses;
** the length of elastic tape is not used in this model, but the note is kept standardized for all consumption tables.
Before cutting, be sure to pre-shrink (pre-treat) the fabric: wash or steam-press it according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to prevent the finished garment from shrinking later. Check the fabric for defects, nap direction (if any), and print orientation.
Transfer all notches and balance marks, the waistline, princess seams, front edge line, neckline, back-belt placement marks, as well as buttonhole and button placement marks from the pattern’s technical documentation onto the fabric.
Some pieces (front center, front side, front facing, back-neck facing) are convenient to cut from pre-fused fabric: first fuse the fabric section with interfacing, let it cool, and then cut the pieces precisely using the pattern. For the back, you can cut the center and side from the main fabric first and then apply the interfacing pieces shown in the pattern (for the seams and hem).
Step 1. Cutting the shell pieces and interfacing
Cut the front pieces (center and side), back pieces (center and side), back-neck facing, front facing, and the back-belt pieces from the main fabric. As noted above, cut some pieces from pre-fused fabric. For the back, cut the separate interfacing pieces (for the princess seams and hem) from the pattern and fuse them to the corresponding areas.
Step 2. Preparing the back waist belt
Fold the belt pieces in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch along the long edges and one short edge, leaving the other short edge open. Seam allowance: 1 cm. Trim the corners, turn the belt right side out, carefully shape the corners, and press. Position the belts on the back center piece at the waistline, matching the notches. Secure the belts with short stitches within the princess-seam allowances.
Step 3. Sewing the princess seams on the front and back
Place the front center and front side pieces right sides together, matching notches along the princess seam. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Sew the back princess seams the same way, keeping in mind the belts are already attached to the back center piece. Press the seams: on the front, toward the side panel; on the back, toward the back center (or as indicated on the pattern).
Step 4. Stabilizing edges and preparing the back hem
Stabilize the front and back armholes with bias stay tape, placing it exactly on the seam line and gently clipping on curves so it lies flat without tension. Stabilize the front edges, shoulder seams, and neckline with straight-grain stay tape, clipping where needed on curves. Fuse the hem interfacing piece to the back hem area, slightly away from the side seams and facing edge, as indicated on the pattern.
Step 5. Sewing the side seams and pressing the hem fold
Place the front and back right sides together, matching notches and princess seams along the side edges. Stitch the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance and press open. Press the hem fold along the notches (the lining turn-up is accounted for in the pattern), forming an even hem line.
Step 6. Preparing the lining pieces
Cut the lining for the front and back, as well as the back-neck facing and the front facings from lining fabric (some pieces may be interfaced if required by the interfacing plan). Transfer the bust dart outline to the front lining. You can:
Choose the option that best suits your fabric and fit.
Step 7. Joining the lining to the facings and back-neck facing
Place the front lining and front facing right sides together, matching notches and edges. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance; press the seam allowances toward the lining. Attach the back lining to the back-neck facing the same way, stitch with 1 cm, and press allowances toward the lining.
Step 8. Lining side seams and a turning opening
Place the front lining and back lining right sides together and stitch the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Leave a 12–15 cm turning opening in the left side seam of the lining (do not stitch this section). Press the seams open.
Step 9. Attaching the lining to the vest hem
Place the outer vest and lining right sides together, matching side seams and princess seams at the hem. Align the lower edges and stitch the lining to the vest hem with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam toward the lining.
Step 10. Stitching the facing to the front edge and forming the roll
Align the vest front edge with the facing, right sides together. Stitch the facing to the front edge with a 1 cm seam allowance, starting at the top of the front edge and stopping at the point where the seam transitions to the hem, backstitching to secure. Turn the seam allowances toward the facing and sew an understitch on the facing 0.1 cm from the seam (this helps the edge roll neatly). Turn the front edge right side out, shape the corners, and press, forming a slight roll toward the facing (the facing is approximately 2–3 mm shorter, which helps it roll to the inside correctly).
Step 11. Securing the hem to the seams
Arrange the vest along the pressed hem line, forming a small lining ease. Secure the outer-hem allowance to the princess-seam and side-seam allowances with short bar tacks (by machine or by hand). This prevents the lining from sagging and keeps the hem stable.
Step 12. Finishing the armholes
Make sure the armhole facing/lining edge is slightly smaller than the outer piece (about 3 mm) to create a roll. Place the vest and lining right sides together along the armhole, matching notches and seams. Stitch the armholes with a 1 cm seam allowance, but stop 5 cm short of the shoulder seam on both the front and back sides. Trim seam allowances to 0.5 cm and clip curves, stopping 1–2 mm before the stitch line. Turn the armholes right side out, fold seam allowances toward the facing, and understitch on the facing 0.1 cm from the seam. Start and finish the understitch 1–2 cm below the unstitched sections near the shoulder seam. Press the armholes, creating a roll toward the lining.
Step 13. Finishing the front and back neckline
Place the vest and lining right sides together along the front and back neckline, aligning notches and shoulder seams. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, again leaving about 5 cm unstitched on both sides of the shoulder seams. Trim and clip curves as needed. Turn the neckline right side out, shape the curves, and press with a slight roll toward the lining.
Step 14. Sewing the shoulder seams
Through the turning opening in the lining side seam, pull out the outer-fabric shoulder edges, place them right sides together, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam open. Then pull out the lining shoulder edges through the opening, place right sides together, and stitch with a 1 cm allowance; press open as well. Turn the shoulder area back through the opening and arrange the vest neatly.
Step 15. Closing the gaps near the shoulder at the armhole and neckline
Through the same turning opening, pull out the remaining open sections near the shoulder at the armhole and neckline one at a time. Place edges right sides together and stitch, continuing the armhole and neckline seam lines. Turn the vest fully right side out and press the shoulder area thoroughly.
Step 16. Closing the turning opening
Close the turning opening in the lining side seam either by hand with a slip stitch or by machine if you can access the area comfortably. Press the lining side seam.
Step 17. Buttonholes, buttons, and final pressing
Using the front pattern piece, mark the buttonhole and button placements along the front edge. Sew the buttonholes and attach 5 buttons, starting at the top and spacing them evenly along the closure. Give the garment a final press, shaping the lapels, front edges, armholes, and hem. Vest 3195 is ready to wear — pair it with trousers, skirts, or dresses for both everyday and dressier looks.