A women’s straight-silhouette jacket made from quilted raincoat fabric with 100 g/m² insulation. The jacket is lined, has a slightly dropped shoulder line, and is comfortable to wear—perfect for an everyday wardrobe.
The front features a bust dart, and the closure is комбined: a separating zipper and snaps. There is a welt pocket. The back is lengthened by 8 cm; the neckline features a hood with a center seam. A drawstring casing is made at the hem with cord elastic and cord locks to adjust the volume.
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (quilted raincoat fabric) 1.5 m wide | 1.40* | 1.40* | 1.45* | 1.50* | 1.50* | 1.55* | 1.65* | 1.75* | 1.80* |
| Lining 1.5 m wide | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.8* | 0.8* | 0.8* | 0.8* | 0.8* |
| Trimming/finishing fabric 1.5 m wide | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* |
| Cord elastic, m | 1.3 | 1.34 | 1.38 | 1.42 | 1.46 | 1.50 | 1.54 | 1.58 | 1.62 |
| Zipper, cm | 53.5 | 54 | 54.5 | 55 | 55.5 | 56 | 56.5 | 57 | 57.5 |
* material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, print direction, nap direction, plaid/stripe matching, distortion, gaps, and other технологические потери.
** the cord elastic length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the material; for convenience, you can take about 10 cm extra for later length adjustment.
ASYMMETRY: the top of the pattern piece is the right side of the fabric. When cutting all asymmetric pieces, place them this way, following the right side of the pattern piece.
Before cutting, it is recommended (if possible) to pre-shrink/decate the fabric according to the manufacturer’s instructions, check it for defects, nap direction, and quilting specifics. When pressing quilted raincoat fabric and seams, use a slightly warm iron without steam, through a pressing cloth, so as not to damage the insulation and the fabric.
Cutting the pieces. Cut the pieces from the main quilted raincoat fabric and the lining, taking into account the grain direction and the 8 cm back length extension. When cutting asymmetric pieces, remember that the right side of the pattern piece corresponds to the right side of the fabric.
Welt pocket with a flap/welt. Using the pattern on the front, mark the pocket opening lines and the welt position. Fold the welt in half right sides together and stitch the side edges. Trim excess seam allowances at the corners, turn the welt right side out, and square the corners.
Fix the welt along the lower marked pocket-opening line, aligning the welt edge with the slit line. The free edge of the welt faces downward. Stitch the welt in place, starting and ending with backstitches.
Sew the facing (pocket backing) to the pocket bag; press the seam allowances toward the pocket lining. Then fix the facing along the upper marked pocket-opening line: place the facing and the front right sides together, with the free edge of the facing pointing upward. Stitch, precisely hitting the intersections of the marked lines.
Place the pocket bag and the welt right sides together, secure, and stitch the pocket bag to the welt, stitching exactly into the welt-sewing line. Along the pocket opening, cut from the center to both sides, stopping about 1.5 cm before the ends of the frame, and clip into the corners leaving about 0.1 cm to the stitching. Pull the seam allowances, pocket bag, and facing through to the wrong side via the opening.
Stitch the pocket bags together along the shaped edges. Additionally secure the side ends of the welt to the front with short stitches so the welt does not stretch out during wear.
Front and bust dart. Using the pattern, mark the center of the bust dart on the front. Fold the dart right sides together, align the dart legs, and stitch from the control notch at the center to the dart point. Press the dart intake upward toward the shoulder line. Press with a slightly warm iron without steam, gently shaping the dart point.
After the dart is finished, stitch the shoulder seams of the front and back, and press the seams open.
Setting the sleeve into an open armscye and sewing side seams. Place the sleeve and armscye right sides together, matching the cap notches with the notches on the front and back. Sew the sleeve into the open armscye; press the seam allowances toward the sleeve.
Then stitch the sleeve seam and the side seam in one continuous seam, matching the notches and the sleeve-setting seam. Press the seam allowances open, forming a smooth side seam without bulk.
Hood with a center seam. Place the hood pieces right sides together and stitch the center seam, matching the notches. Press the seam allowances open. If desired, topstitch along the center seam from the right side to secure the seam allowances.
Then place the hood and the neckline right sides together, matching the notches at the back center, shoulder seams, and front edges. Sew the hood into the neckline; press the seam allowances toward the hood or toward the garment (according to the construction).
Bottom drawstring casing. Stitch the upper and lower casing pieces along the side edges; press seam allowances open. Using the pattern, mark the eyelet positions and set the eyelets on the upper casing pieces (on the front and back).
Fold the casing pieces wrong sides together and sew a basting/auxiliary stitch along the top edge at 0.5 cm to hold the layers together and make it easier to attach to the lining.
Zipper processing. Finish the zipper edges with a fabric roll (roulik) or narrow binding so all raw edges are enclosed. On the left front, use the pattern to mark the zipper stitching line.
Place the zipper along the marked line at the left front edge and topstitch with two rows: the first close to the teeth, the second along the edge of the fabric roll/binding. Make sure the zipper edge does not twist and lies smoothly along the entire front edge.
Facings and snaps. When cutting, account for the asymmetry of the left and right front pieces: the right side of the pattern piece is the right side of the fabric, so place the pattern on the right side of the raincoat fabric without flipping it.
Interface the facing pieces with fusible interfacing, first testing on a scrap to see how the fabric reacts. In the snap areas, additionally reinforce the pieces from the wrong side with dense fabric patches.
Using the facing pattern, mark the snap positions and set them so the cap is on the wrong side of the facing, while the functional part is on the right side when fastened.
Insert the zipper tape corresponding to the right front between the facing pieces and stitch close to the teeth. Press the seam allowances toward the other facing piece and secure with 0.1 cm topstitching. Check the symmetry of the two zipper halves.
Lining, hanger loop, and loops. Make a hanger loop and, if needed, auxiliary loops to secure the lining hem. Sew the hanger loop to the back neck facing.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck facing to the shoulder seams of the front facings. Separately stitch the shoulder seams of the front lining and back lining; press seam allowances toward the back.
On the front lining, form a pleat in the bust area, matching the notches, and press it toward the center. Then stitch the facings and the back neck facing to the lining in one seam, matching the notches and shoulder seams.
Set the sleeve lining into the open lining armscye, matching the notches. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve. At the lower side edges, secure loops for later casing attachment, following the notches. In one seam, stitch the side seams of the front and back lining and the sleeve-lining seams; press seam allowances toward the back.
Stitch the lower hood (lining) pieces along the center seam; press allowances to either side and secure with a 0.1 cm stitching over the allowances. Sew the lower hood into the lining neckline, matching all notches; press seam allowances toward the lining.
Attach the casing to the lining hem, matching notches and side seams. Leave a technical opening at the back center, following the notches. Press the casing seam allowances toward the lining.
Threading the cord elastic into the casing. Cut the cord elastic according to the size in the table; optionally add about 10 cm extra to adjust later. Lay the cord between the casing layers.
Thread the cord from below through the eyelet, then through the cord lock (position it at the level of the facing seam), then from below through the loop, again through the cord lock, and through the second eyelet. Make sure a neat свободная loop forms for later cinching of the hem.
Smooth the cord along the entire casing length and secure it at the ends with short stitches. Then stitch the casing along the lower edge with a seam width of about 0.5 cm.
Joining the lining to the outer jacket. Place the jacket outer and lining right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Press seam allowances toward the casing. Topstitch along the casing at 0.1 cm to secure the allowances and create a crisp hem relief.
Next, stitch the outer and lining together in one continuous seam along the front edges and hood edges, matching all notches and the hood-setting seams. At the hem, make a slight understitch/turn to the lining, folding the hem allowances toward the facing so the lining does not show from the right side.
Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening in the casing, and carefully square the corners. Turn the seam allowances toward the facing and topstitch around the entire perimeter—along the front edges and the lower hood—about 0.1 cm from the edge, securing the allowances. In the bottom corners, stitch as close to the point as the sewing machine allows, without trimming the allowances so as not to weaken the raincoat fabric.
Secure the lining at the sleeve hems, matching the seams; stitch the lining to the sleeve along the lower edge, forming a slight turn to the lining.
Securing seam allowances and the hood. Turn the lower hood outward, forming a slight turn to the lower hood. Secure the upper and lower hood together примерно at the center of the center seam with a short tack.
Through the technical opening, pull out the seam allowances of the hood-setting seam; stack the allowances of the upper and lower hood together with the garment neckline allowances, matching the shoulder seams. Stitch the allowances together as close as possible to the hood-setting seam.
Additionally secure the shoulder seam allowances of the outer and lining, as well as the seam allowances at the sleeve hems, forming a slight turn to the lining and making short tacks about 3 cm from the sleeve hem.
Close the technical opening in the casing with a blind stitch by hand or on the machine.
Snaps, final pressing. Using the pattern, mark the snap positions on the left front. Set the snaps, checking symmetry and ease of fastening.
Finally, carefully press the finished garment with a slightly warm iron without steam, using a pressing cloth: straighten the front edges, hood, hem, and sleeves without crushing the insulation, preserving the loft of the quilted fabric.