The women’s jumpsuit made with pattern 3205 features a relaxed, comfortable silhouette. The bodice is cut at the waistline and joined to the lower part designed as shorts. The front bodice has patch pockets with flaps, and the lower front part includes a side pocket with a separate side panel. A patch pocket is provided on the back shorts piece.
The sleeve has a slightly dropped shoulder line. The back features a double yoke, which additionally stabilizes the shoulder seams and creates a neat inner finish. The closure runs down the center front with a button placket. At the waist, there is a casing with elastic and belt loops for a removable belt. The collar is a stand-and-fall collar on a collar stand, forming a clean neckline line.
For sewing jumpsuit 3205, the following are recommended:
| Supplies | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (width 1.5 m) | 1.55* | 1.55* | 1.65* | 1.65* | 1.80* | 1.85* | 1.90* | 2.00* | 2.20* |
| Interfacing (width 1.5 m) | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.70* |
| Elastic 3 cm wide, cm | 56 | 60 | 64 | 68 | 72 | 76 | 80 | 84 | 88 |
* material consumption is listed without allowances for shrinkage, skewing, gaps, and other technical losses;
** the elastic length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic.
Before cutting, be sure to pre-shrink (decatize) the fabric according to its type, allow it to dry completely, and let it rest. Check the fabric for defects and take into account the grainline direction, nap, and print orientation.
Cut all pattern pieces including the seam allowances marked on the pattern. Transfer all notches, balance marks, pocket outlines, waistline, and hem fold lines to the fabric.
Parts that require extra accuracy and stability (button plackets, collar stand, collar, upper pocket flaps) are convenient to fuse using the “pre-fused block” method: cut a fabric rectangle slightly larger than the pattern piece, fuse the interfacing to it, let it cool, and then cut the exact piece from the fused layer.
Fuse interfacing to: the button plackets, collar stand, upper collar, upper pocket flaps, the center-front shorts extension for the placket, and the top fold of patch pockets (using separate interfacing pieces from the pattern). Reinforce the pocket opening on the front shorts piece with a fusible stay tape on the grain.
Step 1. Cut all pieces from the main fabric and interfacing, strictly following the grainline and markings. Pieces to be fused are cut with a small margin, fused, allowed to cool, and trimmed to the pattern outline. Fuse the button plackets, collar stand, upper collar, upper pocket flaps, the center-front extension on the shorts, and the pieces for the top fold of patch pockets.
Step 2. On the front shorts pieces, reinforce the pocket opening with fusible stay tape (place the strip along the pocket opening; clip slightly at curves if needed). Additionally, fuse the center-front shorts extension at the top where the button placket will be attached later.
Step 3. Finish the patch pockets on the back shorts and on the front bodice. Transfer pocket placement lines from the patterns onto the garment. Overlock/serge the top fold edge of the pocket, press the top section to the wrong side along the notches. Fold the pressed top edge right sides together with the pocket along the fold line and stitch the side edges of the top fold with a 1 cm seam allowance. Turn the fold out, shape the corners neatly, and press. Press the pocket side edges to the wrong side by 1 cm. Topstitch along the pocket’s top edge, following the fold. Place pockets on the garment along the marked outlines, additionally marking the pocket bottom fold points and pocket center. Pin in several places. Stitch the patch pocket: start at the top edge, sew down the sides and along the bottom, stopping about 1 cm before the lower corner, fold the pocket bottom and continue sewing, finishing with bartacks at the top on both sides.
Step 4. Make the pocket flaps and the collar. Place the upper and lower flap right sides together and stitch the lower edge with a 0.5 cm seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the lower flap and understitch 0.1 cm from the seam on the lower flap. Then place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch the side edges with a 0.5 cm seam allowance, keeping the lower-edge seam allowances directed to the lower flap to create a slight turn-of-cloth. Make the collar the same way: place upper and under collar right sides together and stitch the top edge with a 0.5 cm seam allowance; press seam allowances to the under collar and understitch 0.1 cm from the seam. Then stitch the collar side edges with a 0.5 cm seam allowance, again pressing seam allowances toward the under collar. Trim corners without cutting into the stitches, turn right side out, and shape corners carefully. Press flaps and collar, forming a small turn-of-cloth toward the underside. Topstitch along the sewn edges 0.1 cm from the edge. Serge/overlock the upper open edge of each flap. Check collar symmetry by folding in half; if needed, trim the under collar slightly and mark a center notch on the open edge. On one collar stand piece, press the lower edge to the wrong side by 1 cm and stitch it down.
Step 5. Attach the flaps above the patch pockets. Use the top marked pocket line as a guide: place the open (serged) edge of the flap to the bodice/back with the flap pointing upward. Pin. Stitch along the marked line with a 1 cm seam allowance. If desired, tuck the serger tails under the straight seam at the bartack area. Then fold the flap down over the pocket and topstitch along the upper flap edge with a 0.5 cm seam allowance to secure it in place.
Step 6. Attach the collar stands to the collar. Place the upper collar right sides together with the lower stand (the one with the pressed-and-stitched lower edge), matching center and end notches. Cover with the upper stand, right sides together with the lower stand, and pin or baste all three layers (stand–collar–stand), matching notches. Stitch along the lower edge of the stand with a 0.5 cm seam allowance (or according to the pattern). Turn the stand right side out, carefully roll out the seam, and press, touching only the seam and the stand so as not to stretch the collar attachment line.
Step 7. Sew the side pocket with separate side panel on the front shorts piece. Place the front shorts piece and pocket bag right sides together and stitch along the pocket opening with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the pocket bag and understitch 0.1 cm from the seam on the pocket bag. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side and press the pocket opening, forming a clean edge with a slight roll to the inside. Topstitch along the pocket opening with a 0.5 cm seam allowance. Place the facing and pocket bag right sides together and stitch along the shaped edge; serge/finish seam allowances. Turn the facing and pocket bag inside and secure with temporary stitches along the side and top edges with a 0.5 cm seam allowance. Press the finished pocket.
Step 8. Join the front and back shorts pieces. Place right sides together and stitch side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish seam allowances and press them toward the back. Topstitch along the side seam 0.1 cm from the seam to secure the allowances. Mark and press the shorts hem fold along the notches. Stitch inseams with a 1 cm seam allowance; finish and press seam allowances toward the back. Finish the lower edge and sew the hem along the pressed fold. Turn one shorts leg right side out and insert it into the other (wrong side out), aligning inseams. Stitch the crotch seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, starting at the center-front extension for the placket and ending at the top edge of the back. Topstitch along the crotch seam 0.1 cm from the seam.
Step 9. Assemble the upper back with a double yoke. Place one yoke piece right sides together with the back and stitch along the yoke seam with a 1 cm seam allowance. Place the second yoke piece right sides together with the wrong side of the back, aligning edges, pin, and stitch, following the seam line of the first yoke. Flip both yokes upward; seam allowances will be enclosed between the yoke layers. Press and topstitch along the yoke 0.1 cm from the seam to secure the enclosed allowances.
Step 10. Attach the yoke to the front. Place the upper back yoke (with the lower yoke) right sides together with the front pieces at the shoulder seams and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Then place the lower yoke at the shoulders right sides together with the wrong side of the front so that the shoulder seam allowances are enclosed between the yokes. Pin and stitch, following the seam line of the upper yoke attachment. Press and topstitch along the yoke seam 0.1 cm from the seam.
Step 11. Set in the sleeves and sew side seams. Mark and press the sleeve hem along the notches. Place sleeve and armhole right sides together, matching sleeve cap notches, sleeve center to the shoulder seam, and the front notch. Stitch the sleeve with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish seam allowances and press them toward the front and back. Topstitch along the armhole on the garment side 0.1 cm from the seam to secure allowances. Then place front and back right sides together and stitch side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous seam with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish and press seam allowances toward the back. Finish the sleeve hem edge and stitch the hem along the pressed fold.
Step 12. Make the belt loops. Fold the belt-loop strip into thirds and topstitch down the center to form a firm tape. Cut into 5 pieces, each 8 cm long — these are the waist belt loops.
Step 13. Position and pin the belt loops. Place the first pair 4 cm from the front pocket opening toward the center front. Place the second pair 1 cm from the side seam toward the center back. Place the fifth loop at the center of the back shorts piece. Secure the lower ends of the loops at the shorts top edge, staying 0.5 cm away from main seams to avoid bulk.
Step 14. Sew the waist casing and insert elastic. Finish one long edge of one casing piece — this is the lower casing. Place the other (upper) casing piece right sides together with the shorts top edge, matching notches and center, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam toward the casing. Secure the lower ends of the belt loops by stitching 0.5 cm below the casing attachment seam. Then fold the upper ends of the loops upward and pin them to the upper edge of the casing.
Place the upper casing edge right sides together with the lower edge of the bodice front and back and stitch, matching notches. Place the lower casing piece to the wrong side of the bodice so it covers the joining seam allowances, and stitch along the upper edge, following the previous seam. Fold the lower casing down, press, baste or pin the lower edge, and stitch “in the ditch” exactly in the seam line of the upper casing attachment. At each belt loop, add bartacks before and after the loop, without stitching across it.
Cut elastic to the required length (per the table or your waist measurement), thread it through the casing, and secure at the center front with a 0.5 cm seam. To prevent twisting, additionally secure the elastic with vertical stitching through all layers under each belt loop. Fold the upper ends of the loops upward and topstitch them to the bodice with a 0.1 cm seam allowance.
Step 15. Construct the button plackets. Press each placket piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press one long edge of each placket to the wrong side by 1 cm. Mark the placket attachment points on the center-front extensions of the front pieces (3 cm) and transfer them to the plackets, allowing for the 1 cm seam allowance. Place the placket right sides together with the wrong side of the center-front edge, matching the marks, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the placket. At the corner of the extension, clip the seam allowance to the stitch point, stopping 0.1 cm before the stitching. Turn the placket to the right side, align the edge, and topstitch along the pressed edge, covering the attachment seam by about 0.1 cm.
Lay the right placket over the left, align, secure them together along the lower section, turn to the wrong side, and stitch. Finish seam allowances; secure thread tails. Press the placket carefully.
Step 16. Attach the collar to the neckline. Place the lower collar stand right sides together with the neckline, matching notches at the center back, shoulder seams, and placket edges, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Fold seam allowances inside the stand. Lay the upper stand with the pressed edge over the seam and stitch 0.1 cm from the edge, following the seam line of the lower stand attachment. Press the collar and stand, maintaining the neckline shape.
Step 17. Mark and sew buttonholes and buttons. Mark buttonhole positions on the right placket and matching button positions on the left. Some buttons are sewn onto the placket and some onto the pocket flaps. Sew/finish buttonholes and cut them open. Sew buttons so the placket remains flat and does not distort.
Step 18. Make the belt with buckle. Fold the belt piece lengthwise right sides together and stitch along two long edges and one short edge, leaving the other short edge open. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out, shape corners carefully, and press. Finish the open short edge. Topstitch around the entire belt with a 0.5 cm seam allowance. Thread the belt through the buckle with center bar, wrap it around the bar, fold the finished edge under, and hand-stitch it to the belt, aligning with the buckle edges. Thread the finished belt through the waist belt loops.
Step 19. Do the final pressing of the finished jumpsuit. Carefully press seams, placket, collar and stand, flaps and pockets, casing, and belt. Let the garment cool completely on a flat surface. The jumpsuit made with pattern 3205 is ready for fitting and wearing.