The sundress made with pattern 3201 is a women’s strappy sundress featuring a double knit bodice and a voluminous lined balloon skirt. The top is made from stretch single jersey, dense and stable enough to hold its shape well while comfortably fitting the body. The lower part consists of two layers: a shorter lining and a longer outer skirt with gathers along the hip line and at the hem, creating a pronounced “balloon” silhouette.
The bodice is double-layered—an outer and an inner layer are cut separately—so all seam allowances can be neatly enclosed inside. If desired, the sundress can be worn without a bra. The pattern is designed for a height of 164–172 cm and is available in sizes 42–58.
For the bodice (upper part):
For the balloon skirt (outer layer):
For the skirt lining:
Notions:
| Materials | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.8 m width (bodice) | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.70* | 0.90* | 0.95* | 1.05* | 1.15* |
| Outer fabric 1.5 m width (balloon skirt) | 2.20* | 2.25* | 2.30* | 2.35* | 2.40* | 2.40* | 2.45* | 2.50* | 2.55* |
| Lining 1.5 m width | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.90* | 0.95* |
* material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, skewing, spacing, and other technical losses;
** the length of elastic tape (elastic) is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic.
Step 1. Cutting the pieces
From the main knit fabric (stretch single jersey), cut the front and back bodice pieces in two sets: for the outer and inner layers. The grain runs vertically and the stretch goes across the bust. From the lining fabric, cut the skirt pieces (front and back panels or front and back—depending on the pattern pieces). From the outer fabric, cut the same skirt pieces, first lengthening the pattern at the hem by 35 cm as marked on the pattern. Transfer all notches and match points.
Step 2. Sewing the side seams of the double bodice
Place the front and back of the outer bodice right sides together and stitch the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the back. In the same way, stitch the side seams of the inner bodice with a 1 cm seam allowance, finish the seam allowances, and press them toward the front. Pressing the seam allowances in opposite directions helps avoid bulk in the side seams.
Step 3. Finishing the neckline and armholes of the double bodice
Turn the inner bodice right side out and insert it into the outer bodice (“tank inside tank”), matching the side seams, armholes, and neckline. Pin or baste the armholes. Stitch the armholes on an overlocker/serger or with a straight stitch, starting about 5 cm before the shoulder seam and ending 5 cm after it, leaving the strap-top sections unsewn. Finish the back and front neckline the same way: stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance from one unsewn shoulder section to the other, also leaving about 5 cm unsewn near each shoulder seam.
Carefully turn the bodice right side out through the unsewn sections, straighten the seams and edges. Press the neckline and armholes on the edge, avoiding any rolling to one side—the edge should lie flat, without one layer visibly peeking out.
Step 4. Joining and finishing the shoulder seams and straps
Place the shoulder edges of the outer bodice right sides together and stitch them with a 1 cm seam allowance (you can use an overlocker/serger). Through the openings at the straps, carefully turn the shoulders so the seams are enclosed inside. Then spread the bodice so you can access the shoulder edges of the inner layer: place them right sides together and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance as well.
Lay the shoulders flat, fold the strap parts inward, and stitch on the overlocker/serger or sewing machine to close the remaining open armhole sections on both sides of the straps so all seam allowances are enclosed between the layers. Trim excess threads, turn the straps out again, and press neatly without rolling. Do not join the lower edge of the double bodice (outer and inner layers) yet—this will allow you to slightly stretch the bodice when attaching it to the skirt.
Step 5. Sewing the skirt lining
Place the skirt lining pieces right sides together. Stitch the side seams and the center back seam (if included in the pattern) with a 1 cm seam allowance, finish the seam allowances, and press them open. Check the top edge of the lining: the fusible stay tape should stabilize the edge evenly around the entire perimeter, preventing stretching.
Step 6. Sewing the outer balloon skirt
Place the outer skirt pieces right sides together and stitch the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances and press them open. Along the top and bottom edges of the skirt, sew two parallel basting/gathering stitches using the longest stitch length, about 0.5–0.7 cm from the edge.
Carefully pull the threads at the top edge, reducing the outer layer to match the length of the lining’s top edge. Distribute the gathers evenly, using the side and center seams as guides. In the same way, pull the threads at the bottom edge to match the lining’s hem length. Make sure the folds are even, without heavy buildup in certain areas—this affects how neat the balloon silhouette looks.
Step 7. Joining the outer layer to the skirt lining
Place the lining and the outer skirt right sides together at the lower edge, matching the side and center seams. Stitch the lower edge with a 1 cm seam allowance and finish the seam allowances. Turn the skirt right side out, placing the lining inside the outer layer, and smooth the folds along the balloon hem.
Arrange both layers with wrong sides together on the inside, matching the seams. At the top edge of the skirt, join the lining and the outer layer with a basting stitch about 0.5 cm from the edge, matching the side and center seams. If needed, remove part of the gathering basting that gets caught in the seam.
Step 8. Joining the bodice and the skirt
Place the double bodice and the finished skirt right sides together, matching the waistline, side seams, and the front and back centers. Secure with pins or basting. Stitch the waist seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, following the marked line. While sewing, the bodice may be slightly smaller than the skirt waist: gently stretch the bodice and ease the skirt to it, especially around the side seams and the center seam.
Check that the waist seam is even, without puckers, and that the gathers at the hip line and hem keep the balloon volume. Finish the waist seam allowances and press them upward toward the bodice or downward—depending on the thickness and stretch of the fabrics. Optionally, sew a short topstitch on the bodice 0.1–0.2 cm from the waist seam to secure the seam allowances inside.
Step 9. Final pressing (wet-heat treatment)
Inspect the garment: check that the straps lie evenly, there is no distortion at the waist seam, and the balloon skirt gathers are distributed evenly. Press the sundress carefully: for the stretch-jersey bodice, use a moderate temperature and do not stretch the fabric; for raincoat fabric and similar skirt materials, обязательно use a pressing cloth or a thin cotton fabric.
Remove all basting threads and markings, and check seam quality once more. The sundress made with pattern 3201 is ready for fitting and wearing.