This master class covers three girls’ garments made using patterns 1087, 1088, and 1089. All items are designed for heights from 104 to 158 cm and are sewn from lightweight non-stretch raincoat fabric or similar thin woven textiles.
Windbreaker pattern 1087 — a lightweight jacket for girls with a front zipper closure, a floating yoke on the back, elasticated cuffs at the sleeve hems and elastic at the garment hem. Raglan sleeves, a stand-up collar, and decorative piping along the yoke and sleeve seams give the style a sporty look.
Pants pattern 1088 — comfortable pants with a separate waistband featuring wide elastic, a slanted pocket with a separate pocket piece on the front, piping in the side seam, and elastic cord with cord locks at the waist and at the leg hems. The model works well both as a set with the windbreaker and as a standalone wardrobe piece.
Shorts pattern 1089 — a basic shorts style for girls with a separate elastic waistband. The side seam and hem are finished with bias tape, giving the shorts a neat, defined outline and making them easy to pair with windbreaker 1087 and pants 1088.
| Materials | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (width 1.5 m) | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.85* | 0.95* | 1.05* | 1.10* | 1.10* |
| Piping, m | 2.7 | 2.8 | 2.9 | 3 | 3.10 | 3.2 | 3.3 | 3.5 | 3.6 | 3.7 |
| Elastic for sleeves, cm ×2 | 18** | 18** | 19** | 19** | 20** | 20** | 20** | 21** | 21** | 22* |
| Elastic for hem, cm | 55** | 57** | 59** | 61** | 63** | 65** | 67** | 72** | 77** | 81** |
| Zipper, cm | 34 | 35.5 | 37 | 38.5 | 40.5 | 42 | 43.5 | 45 | 46.5 | 48 |
| Materials | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (width 1.5 m) | 0.80* | 0.85* | 0.90* | 0.95* | 1.00* | 1.15* | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.65* | 1.90* |
| Piping, m | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.6 | 1.7 | 1.8 | 1.9 | 2 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.2 |
| Waist elastic, cm | 47** | 46** | 47** | 48** | 49** | 50** | 52** | 54** | 56** | 58** |
| Elastic cord, m | 2** | 2** | 2.1** | 2.1** | 2.2** | 2.3** | 2.5** | 2.7** | 2.8** | 2.9** |
| Materials | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (width 1.5 m) | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.45* | 0.45* | 0.45* | 0.45* |
| Bias tape, m | 1.6 | 1.6 | 1.7 | 1.7 | 1.8 | 1.8 | 1.9 | 2 | 2.1 | 2.1 |
| Waist elastic, cm | 47** | 46** | 47** | 48** | 49** | 50** | 52** | 54** | 56** | 58** |
* material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, pattern direction, nap, checks or stripes, skewing, gaps, and other technological losses;
** elastic tape length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic.
Before cutting, all types of fabric should be pre-shrunk (tested for shrinkage using steam or damp pressing), dried, and pressed again. Check the fabric for defects, watch the nap and print direction, and lay out pattern pieces correctly along the grainline.
After cutting, transfer all notches, fold lines, piece centers, control points for sleeves, yokes, waistband, hem fold lines, and the positions of buttonholes or eyelets for the elastic cord.
Step 1. Cut the windbreaker pieces from the main fabric, considering grainline and print direction. Check that paired pieces match (sleeves, fronts). If needed, apply interfacing according to the interfacing plan: interface both collar stand pieces; optionally interface the lower front edge areas under the zipper.
Step 2. Back construction. Place the piping on the right side of the lower edge of the floating back yoke and stitch it on using a zipper foot, matching raw edges. Overlock/finish the seam allowances. Press the allowances toward the yoke and topstitch on the yoke at 0.1 cm to secure the allowances. Then place the yoke onto the back and secure with a basting stitch along the side edges, armholes, and neckline at 0.5 cm.
Step 3. Piping on the sleeve. Place the piping on the right side of the back sleeve piece along the armhole and the upper sleeve edge and stitch it on, matching raw edges. Also stitch piping to the armhole of the front sleeve piece.
Step 4. Join sleeve pieces. With right sides together, stitch the back sleeve and front sleeve together along the upper seam, aligning with the piping seam. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the back sleeve. Repeat for the second sleeve.
Step 5. Sew raglan seams. With right sides together, match the sleeve to the front and back, aligning notches and the piping seam. Stitch around the armhole to form the raglan seam. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the front and back. Repeat for the second sleeve.
Step 6. Sleeve hem elastic. Cut elastic to the required length according to the consumption table. Place the elastic on the wrong side along the sleeve hem edge and serge/overlock it on while lightly stretching. Secure the other edge of the elastic on a straight-stitch machine by stitching along the elastic edge. Fold the sleeve, sew the sleeve side seam and the garment side seam, finish the seam allowances, and press them toward the back. Turn the elastic to the inside, smooth the fold, and stitch along the fold edge while stretching to form the cuff.
Step 7. Hem band. Fold the hem band piece in half with wrong sides together along the notches and secure with a basting stitch at 0.5 cm. Place the band on the right side of the garment hem and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching side seams and notches. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the garment.
Step 8. Hem elastic. Cut elastic to the required length per the consumption table and insert it into the band. Secure the elastic ends with a basting stitch at the side seams or at the center back, distributing the gathers evenly along the hem.
Step 9. Prepare the stand-up collar. Place piping on the right side of the upper collar stand piece and stitch it on, tucking the piping ends into the seam allowance and stopping 1 cm short of the collar edges. With right sides together, stitch the upper and under collar stand pieces along the top edge, aligning with the piping seam. Finish the lower edge of the under collar (overlock or bind with tape). Turn the collar right side out, shape the corners, and press carefully, forming a slight roll toward the under piece.
Step 10. Attach the collar. Find and mark the center of the collar’s lower edge. Place the upper collar right sides together with the neckline, matching the center to the center back and aligning notches at the shoulder lines and at the zipper edges. Stitch the collar into the neckline with a 1 cm seam allowance.
Step 11. Sew in the zipper and finish the collar. Place the zipper right sides together with the center front edge of one front piece and stitch from the hem up to the collar seam, backstitching at the start and end. Ensure the zipper top ends at the level of the collar piping. On the other front piece, mark the levels of the piping, the collar seam, and the hem band seam; place the other zipper tape and stitch, matching marks to seams. Shorten the zipper; fold the top zipper tail at a 45º angle and wrap it with the under collar, covering seam allowances. Stitch the under collar to the neckline by sewing in the seam of attaching the upper collar, then topstitch along the zipper to secure its position.
Step 12. Final pressing. Press seams carefully without stretching the raincoat fabric, especially where elastic and piping are used. The windbreaker is ready.
Step 13. Cut the pants pieces from the main fabric, considering grainline and print direction. Transfer all notches, pocket opening lines, hem lines, and the positions of buttonholes for the elastic cord on the waistband and at the leg hems.
Step 14. Slanted pocket with separate pocket piece. Place the pocket lining right sides together with the front pants piece and stitch along the pocket opening with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the lining and understitch on the lining at 0.1 cm to secure the allowances. Turn the lining to the wrong side, forming a slight roll, and press the pocket opening. Topstitch along the opening at 0.5 cm. With right sides together, stitch the pocket facing to the pocket lining along the shaped edge and finish seam allowances. Secure the facing with basting stitches at 0.5 cm along the side and top edges. Press the finished pocket.
Step 15. Piping and side seam. Place piping on the right side of the side edge of the front pants piece and stitch along the full length. With right sides together, stitch the front and back pants pieces along the side seams, aligning notches and matching the piping seam. Finish seam allowances and press them toward the back piece.
Step 16. Prepare the leg hems and buttonholes for elastic cord. On the hem area pieces, use the pattern to mark buttonhole placement for the elastic cord. Fuse a small piece of interfacing behind each buttonhole area on the wrong side. Finish and sew the buttonholes. Press the hem fold along the allowance. Then stitch the inseams with right sides together, aligning notches, using a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish seam allowances and press toward the back piece. Finish the raw hem edge and stitch the hem in place, aligning with the fold edge.
Step 17. Sew the crotch seam. Turn one leg right side out and keep the other leg wrong side out. Insert the right-side-out leg into the other one (right sides together) and stitch the seat/crotch seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching inseam seams. Finish seam allowances and press them toward the right side.
Step 18. Elastic waistband. Mark buttonhole positions on the waistband using the pattern markings and fuse small pieces of interfacing behind each one. Sew the buttonholes. Press the waistband in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. With right sides together, stitch the short ends with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving a small opening on the inner waistband layer. Press the seam open. Attach the outer waistband edge to the right side of the pants waist, matching notches and seams, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances.
Step 19. Insert elastic. Cut elastic to the required length per the consumption table. Insert it through the opening in the inner waistband layer, sew the elastic ends together, distribute gathers evenly, and close the opening.
Step 20. Waistband topstitching. Sew two parallel topstitch lines on the waistband: the first 1 cm below the waistband attachment seam, the second 1 cm from the top edge. Make sure the elastic moves freely between the rows and does not twist.
Step 21. Measure the elastic cord for the waist. Place the elastic cord around the waist: leave about a 2 cm tail on one side, measure around the waist, then form a loop about 5 cm long on the other side and run the cord through the waistband back to the starting point. Cut to length based on the initial tail.
Step 22. Thread the elastic cord and add the cord lock. Thread the elastic cord through the buttonholes/eyelets on the waistband. Pass one end through the cord lock holes twice, then tie both ends together with a strong knot. Trim excess tails and slide the knot closer to a side seam, adjusting the cord in the lock.
Step 23. Elastic cord at the leg hems. Measure the elastic cord to the leg hem width, leaving 4–5 cm for the knot. Thread it through the buttonholes at each hem, add cord locks, tie knots, trim excess, and distribute the cord so the knots sit closer to the side seams.
Step 24. Final pressing. Press seams carefully, avoiding too much steam where elastic and cord are placed. The pants are ready.
Step 25. Cut the front and back shorts pieces, waistband, and (if needed) small details. Carefully follow the grainline and transfer all notches and the crotch and inseam lines.
Step 26. Sew inseams and crotch seams. With right sides together, stitch the front and back pieces along the inseams. Finish seam allowances and press them toward the back. With right sides together, stitch the center front seam; stitch the center back seam in the same way. Finish seam allowances and press them toward the right side.
Step 27. Finish the side seam and hem with bias tape. Attach bias tape along the full length of the side edge of the back piece, along the shorts hem, and along part of the side edge of the front piece up to the extended allowance, shaping a smooth rounded line. Bring the tape edge onto the extended allowance, fold neatly, and secure.
Step 28. Join side seams. On the side edge of the front piece, mark a 1.5 cm allowance. Place the back piece over the front, aligning to the marked line, and pin. Stitch the back to the front along the side seam, sewing exactly in the seam line of the bias tape attachment.
Step 29. Elastic waistband. Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together and mark the center. On the outer waistband layer, mark and sew buttonholes (or mark eyelet positions) and make them. With right sides together, stitch the short ends with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving a small opening on the inner layer. Press the seam open. Attach the outer waistband edge to the right side of the shorts waist, matching notches, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances.
Step 30. Elastic and drawcord. Cut elastic to the required length per the consumption table and insert it through the opening. Sew the elastic ends together, distribute gathers evenly, and close the opening. If desired, thread a drawcord or elastic cord through the buttonholes or eyelets.
Step 31. Final pressing. Press all seams, especially the bias-tape areas and waistband. The shorts are ready.
A set consisting of windbreaker 1087, pants 1088, and shorts 1089 creates a comfortable, versatile warm-weather wardrobe for girls: the windbreaker for cool breezes, the pants for active walks, and the shorts for the hottest days.