Jacket 1096 for girls. A straight-silhouette jacket made from suiting fabric. The front features a yoke with a decorative flap. Set-in sleeves with cuffs. Button closure along the front edge. Stand-and-fall collar. The hem has a decorative shirt imitation made from contrast fabric.
Skort 1095 for girls. The top layer is a half-circle skirt with pleats on the front. Inside are separate cotton shorts, flared toward the hem and slightly longer than the skirt. Separate elastic waistband; the model is comfortable and provides good coverage in wear.
Pants 1093 for kids. Simple pants (capri length) for children with a separate elastic waistband. Front pieces have slanted pockets with a side piece and a faux fly; small pleats at the waist. Hem finished with a turn-up.
Capri pants 1094 for teens. A teen unisex version of capri pants made from suiting fabric. Straight silhouette, separate elastic waistband, slanted pocket with a side piece, waist pleats, and a faux fly. Hem finished with a turn-up. The sewing process is similar to model 1093, but with its own size chart.
This master class is suitable for patterns: 1096 (jacket), 1095 (skort), 1093 and 1094 (pants/capri pants).
| Materials | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (150 cm width) | 0,60* | 0,65* | 0,70* | 0,75* | 0,75* | 0,80* | 0,85* | 0,85* | 0,90* | 0,95* |
| Fusible interfacing (150 cm width) | 0,35* | 0,35* | 0,40* | 0,40* | 0,40* | 0,45* | 0,45* | 0,45* | 0,50* | 0,50* |
| Contrast fabric (150 cm width) | 0,10* | 0,10* | 0,10* | 0,10* | 0,10* | 0,10* | 0,10* | 0,10* | 0,10* | 0,10* |
| Materials | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (150 cm width) | 0,55* | 0,55* | 0,60* | 0,60* | 0,60* | 0,65* | 0,65* | 0,70* | 0,70* | 0,70* |
| Contrast fabric (150 cm width) | 0,40* | 0,45* | 0,45* | 0,45* | 0,45* | 0,45* | 0,50* | 0,60* | 0,65* | 0,65* |
| Elastic 4 cm, cm | 47** | 46** | 47** | 48** | 49** | 50** | 52** | 54** | 56** | 58** |
| Materials | 74 | 80 | 86 | 92 | 98 | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (150 cm width) | 0,40* | 0,40* | 0,45* | 0,55* | 0,55* | 0,60* | 0,65* | 0,65* | 0,70* | 0,70* |
| Elastic 3 cm, cm | 36** | 38** | 40** | 42** | 44** | 46** | 46** | 48** | 48** | 50** |
| Materials | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (150 cm width) | 0,70* | 0,75* | 0,80* | 0,85* | 0,85* |
| Elastic 3.5 cm, cm | 50** | 52** | 54** | 56** | 58** |
* Fabric requirements are given without allowances for shrinkage, nap, pattern direction (checks/stripes), skew, layout gaps, and other technical losses.
** Elastic length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic.
Before cutting, all fabrics must be pre-shrunk (wash or steam according to the manufacturer’s recommendations), dried, and pressed. Check the fabric for defects and pay attention to the grainline direction, nap, and print (especially for checks or stripes).
When cutting, transfer all notches, pleat marks, pocket lines, centers, and fold lines for waistbands and cuffs onto the fabric. For jacket 1096, according to the interfacing layout, fuse interfacing to the front edges, lapel breaks, front and back neckline areas, upper collar and stand (if included), flaps, sleeve cuffs, and button areas. For pants pockets (1093, 1094), reinforce the pocket opening with stay tape (straight-grain tape).
Step 1. Cut the pieces from the main and contrast fabrics as well as the interfacing, paying attention to the grainline and print direction. Fuse the pieces according to the pattern’s interfacing diagram (front edges, neckline, collar, flaps, cuffs, required areas of the front and back).
Step 2. Prepare the contrast pieces for the shirt-hem imitation. Overlock/finish the lower contrast piece for the back and fronts on three sides. Place the back and front contrast pieces right sides together and stitch the side edges up to about 2 cm, with a 1 cm seam allowance. Turn the seam allowances at the slits inside by 1 cm and secure with a short bar tack at the hem. Turn out the corners, shape them neatly, and press. Topstitch along the bottom edge of the contrast piece, about 0.5 cm from the edge.
Step 3. Cuffs. Fold the cuff pieces in half right sides together and stitch the short ends with a 1 cm seam allowance. Turn the cuffs right side out, shape the corners, and press. Topstitch along the side edges and the lower edge of the cuff to set the shape.
Step 4. Flaps. Place the upper and lower flap right sides together. Stitch the side and lower edges with a 1 cm seam allowance, easing the upper flap slightly. Trim corners, turn the flap right side out, shape corners, and press with a slight roll toward the under flap. Topstitch along the seam line (about 0.5 cm).
Step 5. Collar. Place the upper and under collar right sides together, matching notches. Stitch the side and upper edges with a 1 cm seam allowance, easing the upper collar at the ends. Trim corners, turn the collar right side out, shape corners, and press with the roll toward the under collar. Topstitch along the seam line (about 0.5 cm). Stitch a basting/holding line along the lower collar edge to keep layers together.
Step 6. Front assembly. Position the flap along the upper edge of the lower front piece, following the notches, and baste in place. Place the yoke and lower front right sides together and stitch, catching the flap in the seam; seam allowance — 1 cm. Finish the seam allowances and press toward the yoke. Topstitch on the yoke about 0.5 cm from the seam.
Step 7. Join front and back. Place the jacket pieces right sides together and stitch shoulder and side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches. Finish the seam allowances and press toward the back. Press up the hem of the main jacket section along the marked line (use notches as a guide).
Step 8. Sleeves. At the lower sleeve edge on the back side, form a pleat according to the notches toward the cuff closure and secure with stitching. Finish the sleeve lengthwise edges. Fold the sleeve right sides together and stitch the sleeve seam with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam open. The cuffs will then be attached to the sleeve in the round.
Step 9. Attach the contrast hem piece. The main garment hem is already pressed. Place the contrast “shirt” piece right sides together with the pressed hem edge, match side seams and notches, and stitch about 0.5 cm from the edge. Finish the seam allowances.
Step 10. Set the collar. Place the under collar to the garment neckline right sides together, matching centers and shoulder notches; collar ends should align with the notches at the front edge. Stitch the collar into the neckline with a 1 cm seam allowance. Do not press the seam allowances yet — they will be enclosed by the facing.
Step 11. Facing and front edge. Finish the shoulder and inner edges of the facing. Place the lower edge of the facing right sides together with the hem turn-up edge and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Fold the hem down, place the front and facing right sides together, and stitch the facing along the front edge and neckline, aligning with the collar seam. Trim corners, turn the facing to the inside, roll the seam toward the facing, and press thoroughly. Secure the facing shoulder edge to the garment shoulder seam.
Step 12. Topstitching along the front edge and hem. Topstitch along the neckline at 0.1 cm from the seam, then along the front edge at 0.5 cm. Along the hem of the main section (above the contrast piece), stitch a line about 2.5 cm wide from the fold, securing the decorative piece.
Step 13. Sleeve cuffs. Place the cuff to the right side of the sleeve hem, matching cuff edges with the sleeve notches. Stitch in the round with a 1 cm seam allowance; finish the seam allowances. Turn seam allowances toward the sleeve and topstitch on the sleeve about 0.5 cm from the seam, adding bar tacks near cuff ends.
Step 14. Set the sleeves and finishing. Insert the sleeve into the armhole right sides together, match notches and seams (sleeve seam to side seam), and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances and press toward the sleeve. Mark buttonholes and buttons on the front edge and cuffs, sew buttonholes and attach buttons (or apply snaps). Perform final pressing.
Step 1. Cut the skirt pieces from the main fabric and the shorts pieces from the contrast (cotton) fabric, keeping the grainline direction. Transfer pleat and center notches.
Step 2. Shorts. Place the front and back pieces right sides together and stitch side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance; finish seams and press toward the back. Stitch inseams the same way; finish and press toward the back. Turn one leg right side out, insert it into the other, and stitch the crotch seam, matching inseams, with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish and press to one side. Finish the shorts hem, turn up 1 cm, and stitch around.
Step 3. Skirt. On the skirt front, form pleats toward the side seams following the notches and secure with stitching along the top edge (about 0.5 cm from the edge). Finish side edges of the front and back, place right sides together, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press seams open. Finish the skirt hem, turn up 1 cm, and topstitch around.
Step 4. Join shorts and skirt.
Insert the shorts into the skirt with the shorts right side facing the skirt wrong side, match side seams and the front/back centers. Secure the shorts to the skirt waistline with a line of stitching about 0.5 cm from the edge.
Step 5. Waistband. Fold the waistband piece right sides together and stitch the short ends; seam allowance — 1 cm. Press seams open. Press the waistband in half lengthwise. Finish one long edge. Measure the required length of 4 cm wide elastic and stitch it into a ring.
Step 6. Attach waistband and elastic. Place the unfinished long edge of the waistband right sides together with the top edge of the skirt (together with the shorts), match seams and notches, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the waistband. Insert the elastic into the waistband. Fold the finished waistband edge inside to cover seam allowances and secure by stitching in the waistband attachment seam from the right side. Distribute elastic evenly and secure it with vertical stitches at side seams and center front/back to prevent twisting. Final press the garment.
Step 1. Cut the pants pieces from the main fabric, considering grainline and capri length. Transfer notches for pleats, pockets, and the faux fly line.
Step 2. Pocket opening. Fuse a narrow strip of stay tape along the pocket opening line on the front pieces. Place the pocket bag right sides together with the front piece and stitch the pocket opening with a 1 cm seam allowance. Clip seam allowances on curves without cutting into the stitching.
Step 3. Slanted pocket with side piece. Turn seam allowances toward the pocket bag and understitch the pocket bag close to the seam (about 0.1 cm), securing seam allowances. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side, forming a small roll of the main fabric at the pocket opening, and press. Topstitch the pocket opening about 0.5 cm from the edge. Attach the facing to the pocket bag along the shaped edge, finish seam allowances. Secure the facing with basting along the side and waist edges about 0.5 cm from the edge.
Step 4. Waist pleats. At the top edge of the front pieces, fold the pleat right sides together, align notches, and stitch down from the top edge about 3 cm. Press the pleat toward the center front.
Step 5. Side and inseams. Finish side and inseam edges of front and back pieces. Place front and back right sides together and stitch side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches; press seams open. Press up the hem allowance along the hemline. Stitch inseams with a 1 cm seam allowance and press seams open.
Step 6. Crotch seam and faux fly. Turn one leg right side out and insert into the other. Place pieces right sides together along the crotch seam and stitch, following the fly curve, with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish seam allowances. Press the crotch seam, shaping the pressed faux fly according to notches (press allowances to the correct side).
Step 7. Hem finishing. Finish lower edges, fold up along the pressed hemline, and topstitch around (jeans thread or regular thread), tying off overlock tails on the wrong side.
Step 8. Faux fly topstitching. Pin the pressed faux fly in place. On the right side, draw a smooth topstitching line that follows the fly shape. Stitch along the marked line, starting at the top point and ending at the bottom with a small backstitch.
Step 9. Waistband. Press the waistband piece in half lengthwise. Fold it right sides together and stitch the short ends, leaving a small opening on the wrong side for inserting elastic. Press seam allowances open; finish the open long edge.
Step 10. Attach waistband and elastic. Place the waistband right sides together with the top edge of the pants and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching seams and notches. Press seam allowances toward the waistband. Measure and stitch 3 cm wide elastic into a ring. Insert elastic through the opening, join ends, and distribute evenly. Turn waistband to the inside to cover the finished edge and stitch in the waistband attachment seam, securing the inner edge. To prevent twisting, add 4 vertical bar tacks at center front, center back, and both side seams.
Step 11. Final pressing. Press the garment thoroughly, focusing on the fly line, crotch seam, and hems.
The sewing process for model 1094 generally repeats model 1093, adapted to the teen size chart and a 3.5 cm wide elastic. Below are the generalized steps.
Step 1. Cut the pants pieces from teen suiting fabric, transfer notches for pleats, pockets, and the faux fly line. Reinforce the pocket opening on the front pieces with stay tape.
Step 2. Make the slanted pocket with side piece: stitch the pocket bag to the pocket opening with a 1 cm seam allowance, clip seam allowances on curves, turn to the wrong side and understitch on the pocket bag (about 0.1 cm) to form a roll. Topstitch the opening (about 0.5 cm). Attach the facing to the pocket bag, finish seam allowances, and secure the facing along side and waist edges with basting stitches.
Step 3. Form the waist pleat on the front: fold along notches right sides together and stitch down about 3 cm. Press the pleat toward the center seam.
Step 4. Finish side and inseam edges on an overlocker. Place front and back right sides together and stitch side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance; press seams open. Press hem allowance along notches. Stitch inseams and press seams open.
Step 5. Turn one leg right side out, insert into the other, and stitch the crotch seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, following the fly curve. Finish seam allowances. Press the crotch seam and press the faux fly according to notches.
Step 6. Finish lower edges, fold up along the hemline, and topstitch around, keeping close to the hem fold.
Step 7. Faux fly. Pin the pressed faux fly, draw the topstitching line following its curve, and stitch along the marked line. This creates a neat decorative imitation of a fly.
Step 8. Waistband. Fold the waistband right sides together, stitch short ends with a 1 cm seam allowance leaving a small opening on the wrong side. Press seam allowances open, press waistband in half, and finish one long edge.
Step 9. Attach waistband and elastic. Place waistband right sides together with the top edge and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches. Press seam allowances toward the waistband. Cut the required length of 3.5 cm wide elastic, stitch into a ring, and insert through the opening. Distribute evenly and secure with vertical stitches at side seams and center seams. Fold the finished waistband edge inside and stitch in the waistband attachment seam.
Step 10. Final pressing. Press the crotch seam, side seams, faux fly line, and hems, evening out leg lengths. The capri pants are ready for fitting.