Women’s hoodie 3091 is sewn from three-thread fleece with a brushed backing. It is a soft yet dense knit that holds its shape well and adds volume and warmth to the garment. The pattern is designed for soft, dense knit fabrics of similar thickness.
The hoodie has a moderate oversized silhouette, providing comfortable freedom of movement. Raglan sleeves create a smooth shoulder line and a comfortable fit even in warm fabric. Rib knit cuffs (cashkorse) are used at the hem and sleeve hems to neatly secure the edges without squeezing.
The main feature of the model is a hood with a stand collar, into which the front placket transitions smoothly. The closure is made with snaps or buttons. This solution combines the comfort of a sporty hoodie with a neat, “structured” neckline finish.
Attention: the pattern includes an asymmetrical front edge. THE TOP OF THE PATTERN PIECE IS THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FABRIC. During cutting, the pattern pieces must be laid out on the right side of the fleece.
Required: snaps — 5 pcs.
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.8 m wide, m | 1.20* | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.40* | 1.40* | 1.50* | 1.50* |
| Rib knit 1.2 m wide, m | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.35* |
| Fusible interfacing 1.5 m wide, m | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.35* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* |
* material consumption is provided without allowances for shrinkage, pattern direction, nap, checks or stripes, skewing, gaps, and other technological losses.
Before cutting, pre-shrink (decate) the fleece and rib knit according to the manufacturer’s recommendations (light moistening and steaming without stretching). Check the fabric for defects, nap direction, and fabric sides. Lay out the pattern pieces on the right side of the fleece—this is especially important due to the asymmetry of the front and facings.
Apply thin, stretchy fusible interfacing to the placket pieces, the front neckline area, and, if needed, part of the hood stand collar. Fuse with a barely warm iron without strong pressure to avoid distorting the knit.
Cut the pieces from the main fabric: front pieces, back, raglan sleeves (front and back parts), upper and lower hoods, hood insert (if included in the pattern). Cut sleeve cuffs and the bottom band from rib knit. Cut interfacing pieces for reinforcing the plackets and, if needed, neckline areas.
Fuse the plackets on the front pieces, the front edge area, parts of the hood stand collar, and other recommended zones. Mark all notches according to the pattern.
Place the front raglan sleeve pieces right sides together with the front pieces, matching the notches. Stitch the sleeve to the front with a 1 cm seam allowance. In the same way, join the back sleeve pieces to the back. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve; if desired, topstitch along the sleeve to secure the seam allowances.
Fold the hoodie right sides together, matching notches along the side seams and the lower sleeve seams. In one continuous seam, stitch the side seams and sleeve seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the back.
Fold each rib knit cuff in half lengthwise with the wrong side inside and press the fold. Stitch the short edges into a ring with a 1 cm seam allowance and press the seam allowances open. Fold the ring in half lengthwise again.
Insert the sleeve into the cuff so that the cuff edge and sleeve edge are even and the cuff seam matches the sleeve seam. Attach the cuff to the sleeve hem using a stretch stitch or an overlocker. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve and, if desired, topstitch on the sleeve 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam to secure.
Fold the bottom band piece right sides together along the short edges and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press seam allowances open. Fold the band in half lengthwise with the wrong side inside.
Place the band to the bottom edge of the hoodie, aligning the band seam with one of the side seams or the back seam; align notches with the front/back centers. Attach using a stretch stitch or an overlocker. Press seam allowances toward the garment; if needed, secure with topstitching on the hoodie.
Place the upper hood pieces right sides together along the center seam, matching the notches. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, press seam allowances toward the hood insert (or to one side), and topstitch on the insert to secure the seam allowances.
Stitch the lower hood pieces along the center seam in the same way. Press seam allowances to one side and, to avoid extra bulk in the placket area, topstitch on the hood piece (not on the insert).
Overlock the front edges of the hoods (where they meet the neckline) for about 5 cm from the lower edge of each hood.
The placket pieces are interfaced and pressed in half lengthwise with the wrong side inside. Using the pattern, mark fold lines and the positions for snaps or buttons. If needed, sew preliminary topstitching along the placket edge.
For the women’s version, the upper (right) placket overlaps the lower (left), so pay attention to the overlap direction during fitting and securing.
Mark the front neckline center and the points corresponding to where the placket enters. Place the upper hood to the neckline right sides together, matching notches at the back center and raglan lines, as well as the short sections near the front center.
Attach the upper hood to the neckline from the front center for about 5 cm to each side using an overlocker or a stretch stitch. Press seam allowances toward the hood.
Unfold one side of the placket and place it right sides together with the front edge of the upper hood. Stitch on a straight-stitch machine with a 0.8 cm seam allowance, extending about 3 cm above the hood-to-neckline seam. Press seam allowances toward the placket.
Attach the lower hood to the opposite side of the placket in the same way, also right sides together, keeping the same seam allowance. In the curved area, clip the seam allowances slightly, stopping 1 mm before the stitching so the seam lies smoothly without puckers. Spread the seam allowances in opposite directions to reduce bulk.
Place the upper and lower hoods right sides together, matching seams and notches, and stitch along the front edge and the hood opening (fly) with a 0.8–1 cm seam allowance. Turn the hood right side out, shape the edge, and press with a slight roll to one side. If desired, topstitch along the edge to secure the fold.
Since this is a women’s hoodie, place the right placket over the left. Set the overlap so that from the center front edge line to the stitch line there is an allowance of about 0.8 cm.
Secure the overlap with a basting seam 0.5 cm from the edge. Turn the placket, fold the inner edge (pressed earlier), and stitch it to the neckline and the front edge with a 0.8 cm seam allowance, working “from seam to seam.” At the corner near the hood, carefully clip the seam allowances, stopping 1 mm before the stitching to form a neat corner.
Open the garment, straighten the placket, and secure the corners with short stitches on a straight-stitch machine. Then, folding the placket in half, overlock its inner edge and stitch it to the hood to about the middle of its length in one continuous seam.
After the placket is formed and connected to the hood, sew the hood into the entire neckline. Match the notches at the back center, raglan seams, and the placket line. Attach the hood to the neckline with a 1 cm seam allowance, catching both layers of the hood.
To cover the inside seam allowances and create a neat neckline, tuck the “tail” of the hood seam into a small opening in the seam and cover the seam with tape or a strip of thin knit in a matching color. Place the tape over the seam allowances along the neckline and hood line and topstitch, securing the seam allowances inside. The stitch runs along the center of the tape, and the tape edges cover the raw edges.
Using the pattern or during fitting, mark the snap positions on the placket. Distribute the spacing evenly. Install 5 snaps or sew on buttons, reinforcing the attachment points with small squares of interfacing or a piece of thin, dense fabric on the wrong side.
Carefully press the hoodie from the wrong side using a barely warm iron and, if needed, a pressing cloth. Avoid stretching the knit along the hood edge, placket, and cuffs. Let the garment cool completely on a flat surface.
The finished hoodie 3091 has a soft oversized silhouette, a neat placket closure with snaps or buttons, a comfortable hood with a stand collar, and rib knit cuffs (cashkorse).