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Kids’ Coat 1025 with Welt Pockets: Step-by-Step Sewing Masterclass

Coat model description for girls, Pattern 1025

The girls’ coat made from Pattern 1025 is sewn with a lining from quilted raincoat fabric with 100 g/m² insulation. The pattern pieces also work well for soft coating fabrics. The silhouette is loose and comfortable for active kids, with a dropped shoulder line.

The coat features a double-breasted button closure and welt pockets on the front. A belt is included and is secured with a belt loop so the child won’t lose it while wearing the coat. The design looks modern yet practical, suitable for school and everyday walks.

Recommended materials and notions

  • Main fabric: quilted raincoat fabric with 100 g/m² insulation, or a soft coating fabric.
  • Lining fabric.
  • Buttons: approximately 9 pcs for the double-breasted closure.
  • Thread to match the main fabric and the lining.
  • Tape or a strip of main fabric to make the belt loop.
  • Hanging loop for the coat.

Fabric requirements

Important: the fabric requirements are given without allowance for shrinkage, pattern direction, nap, plaid/stripe matching, skewing, seam allowances, and other additional consumption.

Size (height) 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158
Main fabric (width 1.45 m) 1.25* 1.30* 1.40* 1.50* 1.90* 2.00* 2.05* 2.15* 2.25* 2.30*
Lining (width 1.5 m) 0.70* 0.75* 0.80* 0.85* 1.15* 1.20* 1.25* 1.30* 1.35* 1.40*

* Fabric length is shown without extra allowance for shrinkage, nap direction, print matching, skewing, and other technical consumption.

Preparation for cutting

  • Check the fabric for flaws; follow the grainline direction and, if applicable, the nap direction.
  • If needed, pre-shrink the fabric: lightly dampen and press through a press cloth.
  • Carefully transfer all notches, pocket lines, button and buttonhole placements, and the waistline marking for the belt loop.
  • After cutting, you may stitch around the perimeter of the outer pieces with a 0.5 cm seam to stabilize quilted raincoat fabric.

Step-by-step sewing process for the girls’ coat

Below is a generalized sewing sequence for Pattern 1025, based on the technical recommendations and the video masterclass.

1. Welt pocket

  1. Using the markings on the front, mark the pocket outline and the pocket opening line.
  2. Prepare the welt: fold the piece in half right sides together, stitch the side edges with a 1 cm seam, trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, and neatly shape the corners. Lightly press if needed.
  3. Place the welt right sides together on the front so the welt edge aligns with the pocket slit line, and the free edge is directed toward the pocket opening.
  4. Stitch the welt with a 1 cm seam, securing the start and end with backstitches.
  5. Prepare the first pocket bag from lining fabric. Flip the welt up, position the pocket bag piece according to the opening markings, and stitch it with a short seam allowance (about 0.5 cm) from one end of the slit to the other.
  6. Attach the second pocket bag to the welt: place the welt and pocket bag right sides together and stitch exactly along the welt attachment seam.
  7. Cut the pocket opening: cut along the center line, stopping about 0.5 cm from each end, then clip diagonally into the corners, stopping 1–2 mm before the stitching.
  8. Turn the welt, pocket bags, and seam allowances through the opening to the wrong side. Carefully shape the corners to form a clean rectangular pocket opening.
  9. Place the pocket bags together and stitch around the perimeter, following the pattern edges. You can trim and lightly press the seam allowances.
  10. On the right side, secure the welt side edges with a 0.1 cm topstitch.

2. Assembling the coat shell

  1. Stitch the shoulder seams of the fronts and back, matching the notches. Seam allowance: 1 cm. Press the seam allowances open with a slightly warm iron without steam.
  2. Set the sleeve into the open armscye: match the sleeve cap notches (sleeve center to shoulder seam, front notches). Ease the sleeve cap if needed. Press the seam allowance toward the sleeve.
  3. Pre-press the sleeve hem fold along the notches. If needed, slightly “shave” the hem allowance (e.g., 0 to 0.5 cm) so the hem doesn’t push outward.
  4. Belt loop: remove the insulation, cut a narrow strip from the main fabric, stitch, turn, and topstitch. Using the waist notch as a guide, sew the belt loop to the back so the belt can be threaded through and won’t get lost.
  5. Fold the coat right sides together and stitch the side seam and sleeve seam in one continuous seam, matching notches. Press the seam allowances open and press the garment hem fold.

3. Lining

  1. Attach the front lining pieces to the facings, matching all notches.
  2. Make a hanging loop from the main or trim fabric folded into several layers. Sew the loop to the center back neckline of the lining, about 1.5 cm on each side of center, forming a “bridge”.
  3. Stitch the lining shoulder seams (fronts to back) and press the seam allowances open.
  4. Set the lining sleeves into the open armscye, matching all notches. In the left sleeve, leave a turning opening about 15 cm long along the front or elbow seam for turning the coat right side out later.
  5. Belt. If the model includes a belt, make it from the main fabric and insulation (or without insulation if you want less bulk). Topstitch the belt.

4. Joining the lining to the coat hem and facings

  1. Place the lining hem and the coat shell hem right sides together. Stitch along the hem with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving a turning opening at the center back (about 20–30 cm).
  2. Before attaching the facings, check that the right and left facings are symmetrical in length and lapel shape.
  3. Place the front edge and facing right sides together, matching the notches at the hem and lapel break. Stitch the facing from the hem notch to the lapel break notch. Add a slight roll (turn of cloth) along the front edge, so the facing may be slightly longer—ease it in gently.
  4. At the lapel break area, carefully clip to the seam, stopping about 0.5 mm short, and trim away excess seam allowance in the corner so it turns neatly.
  5. Turn out the corner at the front edge and hem, shaping it with a thin stick. Turn the garment right side out and form a crisp roll along the front edge and lapel: the main fabric should slightly extend beyond the lining.

5. Collar

  1. Cut the upper and under collar. Place them right sides together and stitch the outer contour (upper edge and fall), stopping 1 cm before the lower edge. Backstitch at the end of the seam.
  2. On the under collar, sew a helper stitch close to the seam, keeping all seam allowances on the under collar (about 0.1 cm). This helps create a nice roll.
  3. Trim seam allowances at corners and curves, turn the collar right side out, and carefully shape the corners. Lightly press to create a roll—the under collar should be slightly smaller so it “rolls” inward.
  4. Using the pattern as a guide, check collar symmetry: length, width, and matching corners. Trim edges if needed.
  5. Place the under collar right sides together on the coat neckline, matching the collar center to the back center and the notches at the shoulder seams. Stitch the collar (following the collar edge rather than the neckline), ensuring the seam allowances align exactly at the control points.
  6. Attach the upper collar in the same way to the lining neckline with facings.
  7. Through the opening in the lining, turn the garment so you can access the collar seams. Align the seam allowances of the coat neckline and lining neckline, as well as the collar seam allowances, and stitch them together close to the collar attachment seam. For convenience, you can use a zipper foot to sew as close as possible.

6. Attaching the lining to the sleeves, securing the hems

  1. Turn the sleeve through the turning opening in the lining. Insert the lining into the sleeve and match the sleeve hem seam with the lining hem seam.
  2. Place the sleeve hem and lining hem right sides together and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Then turn the sleeve right side out.
  3. Create a small lining “ease” at the sleeve hem seam (about 0.5 cm) and add a bar tack at the sleeve seam so the lining doesn’t pull and doesn’t peek out below the hem.
  4. The coat hem fold is already pressed. Even out the hem, turn back the lining, grab the hem and side seam allowances, and make small bar tacks at the side seams and, if desired, at the center back so the hem doesn’t sag.
  5. Close the turning opening in the left sleeve with hand slip stitches or a neat machine stitch.

7. Final finishing and buttons

  1. Mark the buttonhole placement on the front edge, using the pattern and your preferred closure height: the coat can open from the waist while still allowing it to button up snugly to the neck.
  2. Sew the buttonholes and attach the buttons in two rows to form a neat double-breasted closure.
  3. If needed, add extra bar tacks along the front edge, hem, collar, and quilting seams so the lining won’t shift during wear.
  4. Lightly press the coat with a slightly warm iron without steam, without pressing too hard so you don’t flatten the insulation.

Tips for a great result

  • Be precise with notches—sleeve fit, pocket symmetry, and collar shaping depend on them.
  • Don’t use a high iron temperature, especially on quilted raincoat fabric with insulation.
  • Before permanently attaching the collar and facings, you can try the coat on the child to check the fit.
  • You can watch the full process with all the small nuances in the video masterclass for Pattern 1025 on the studio’s YouTube channel.