Men’s shirt pattern 2031 is a straight-cut model with moderate ease for height 176–182 cm. The shirt features a two-piece set-in sleeve with cuff, a stand-and-fall collar, a front placket with snap buttons, an upper patch pocket with flap, and a kangaroo pocket on the front. A bottom cuff is also included.
This tutorial is especially useful for sewing with faux-fur backed flannel, as well as checked or striped fabrics where accurate pattern matching along the hem, front edges, back, and sleeves is important.
Main fabric: faux-fur backed flannel or another dense shirting fabric that holds its shape.
Fusible interfacing: for plackets, flap, collar, and cuffs.
Additional materials: twill tape if needed to reinforce edges and seams.
Notions: 11 snap buttons.
The consumption table below is given for pattern 2031 in sizes 42–62.
| Material | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.5 m wide, m | 1.65* | 1.65* | 1.80* | 1.80* | 1.90* | 1.90* | 2.00* | 2.00* | 2.00* | 2.10* | 2.10* |
| Fusible interfacing 1.5 m wide, m | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.65* | 0.65* | 0.65* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.80* |
* Material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, pattern direction, pile, checks or stripes, distortion, spacing, and other technical losses.
Before cutting, pre-treat the fabric, check for defects, determine the pile direction, and check pattern symmetry. If the shirt is sewn from faux-fur backed flannel or checked fabric, it is better to cut in a single layer rather than on the fold. This makes it easier to match the checks accurately at the hem, front edges, center back, shoulders, and sleeves.
It is best to align the hem of the fronts, back, and sleeves with the same horizontal stripe or check line. To keep the garment symmetrical, make sure that the beginning and end of the shoulder and the side seams of the right and left pieces fall on the same stripes of the fabric pattern.
Transfer all notches, control marks, pocket lines, placket lines, center back, collar, and sleeve marks. Interface the front plackets, the fold of the kangaroo pocket opening, the upper edge of the upper pocket, the upper flap piece, sleeve cuffs, the bottom cuff, and the undercollar. For bulky faux-fur backed fabrics, the excess pile may be carefully separated from seam allowance areas and places where bulk needs to be reduced before interfacing.
Step 1. Cut all pieces from the main fabric and interfacing. For checked fabric, place the pattern pieces in a single layer, aligning the hem of the garment and sleeves with a distinct stripe. First cut one front, then both halves of the back, and then mirror the second side, checking that the pattern is symmetrical along the front edge, shoulder, and side seam.
Step 2. Prepare the kangaroo pocket. Interface the fold of the pocket opening, overlock the edge, press the fold, and sew the folded section at both sides with a 1 cm seam allowance. Turn the piece right side out, shape the corners, press it, and topstitch along the folded edge. Mark the pocket placement on the front and topstitch it in place, matching the checks or following the marked outline. Stitch along the side and lower edges, starting and ending with backstitches.
Step 3. Prepare the upper patch pocket and flap. Interface the upper flap and the top edge of the pocket. Finish the top edge of the pocket, press the seam allowances, and stitch the pocket onto the front. Make the flap in the way most convenient for you, finish its edge, place it above the pocket opening, and sew it on. Then fold the flap upward and make a securing topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Mark the snap button position after the garment is fully assembled.
Step 4. Prepare the front plackets. If the faux-fur backing has been removed and the piece has become distorted, first reshape it with the iron and lightly stretch it lengthwise to restore the form. Interface the plackets, cut them accurately by the pattern, fold them in half, and press a 1 cm allowance on the inner side. For precise check matching, you may sew a temporary guide stitch along the required line of the pattern. Place the plackets right sides together with the fronts, align the edges, and sew them on, using the markings and the fabric pattern as guides.
Step 5. Sew the shoulder seams of the shirt. Press the seam allowances. If necessary, reinforce the shoulder seam with twill tape: place it with an overlap of about 0.5 cm, sew it on the right side up to the notch, turn it at the notch, trim the excess allowances, then fold the tape to the inside with a slight turn of cloth and secure it with stitching.
Step 6. Prepare the two-piece sleeves. If the model includes an open edge or an area that needs reinforcement, finish it with twill tape. Then place the upper and lower sleeve pieces right sides together and sew the required seam up to the notch. Trim the seam allowance of the upper piece to about 0.5 cm, stopping before the notch. Fold the allowance and topstitch along the sleeve. Press the pieces, correcting any fabric distortion if necessary.
Step 7. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches on the front, back, and sleeve cap center. After sewing, trim the seam allowances along the front and back armholes, fold them toward the garment, and topstitch around the armhole. This treatment secures bulky fabric well and helps the armhole keep its shape.
Step 8. Sew the side seams of the shirt and the underarm seams in one continuous seam. Trim the side seam allowances on the back and make a topstitch up to the armhole. The sleeve seam may be left without topstitching and simply pressed well.
Step 9. Form the pleat at the lower edge of the sleeve according to the notches and secure it with a temporary stitch. Make sure both sleeves are symmetrical.
Step 10. Make the sleeve cuffs. If the fabric is bulky, reduce the thickness in the seam allowances first and interface the pieces. Fold the cuff in half and press it; on one long edge, press a 1 cm seam allowance. Sew the cuff along the short edges with a 1 cm seam allowance, turn it right side out, shape the corners, and press it.
Step 11. Attach the cuffs to the sleeves. Place the right side of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve and sew it on. Trim the seam allowance to about 0.5 cm. Hide all allowances inside the cuff, aligning the inner edge with the seam line, and secure the inner side of the cuff with stitching. If desired, add an additional decorative topstitch 0.5 cm from the cuff edge. Install the snaps after the garment is fully assembled.
Step 12. Make the collar. Reduce the bulk on the undercollar if needed by removing the faux-fur backing and interface the piece. Place the upper and undercollar right sides together so that the upper collar forms a slight turn of cloth. Sew the pieces together, easing the upper collar slightly around the curved areas. Turn the collar right side out, shape the corners, press it, and prepare it for insertion.
Step 13. Sew the collar into the neckline, starting from the marked points on the plackets. Match the notches at the shoulders and center back. If needed, the neckline seam can be finished with twill tape. After attaching the collar, fold the plackets, sew the upper sections near the neckline with a 1 cm seam allowance, turn them right side out, and shape the corners. Baste or pin the inner edges of the plackets, then sew a 0.1 cm stitch along the placket and a 0.5 cm topstitch along the neckline.
Step 14. Make the bottom cuff in the same way as the sleeve cuffs: interface the piece, fold it in half, press a 1 cm allowance on one edge, sew the short edges, turn it right side out, and press it.
Step 15. Attach the bottom cuff to the shirt. Place it with the right side to the wrong side of the garment, sew it on, trim the seam allowances, hide them inside the cuff, and secure the inner edge with stitching in the seam or 0.1 cm from it. If desired, add another decorative topstitch 0.5 cm from the cuff edge.
Step 16. Using the pattern or markings, mark the snap positions on the front placket, sleeve cuffs, and pocket flap. Install the snaps and check the alignment of the plackets and the symmetry of the fabric pattern.
Step 17. Give the finished garment a final press. Pay special attention to the plackets, collar, flap, cuffs, and hem. For checked fabrics, once again check the pattern matching along the front edges, pockets, and sleeves.