The women’s jacket made with pattern 3243 is designed for height 164–172 cm and sizes 42–58. The model is sewn from faux fur and features a straight silhouette, moderate oversize fit, dropped shoulders, a welt pocket on the front, and a high stand-up turn-down collar.
The fastening is made with handmade loops and buttons. Decorative piping is applied along the shoulder seams and armholes, while the open edges of the jacket are finished with binding made from trimming material. This tutorial is also suitable for sewing similar styles from comparable fabrics, bonded materials, or double-sided outerwear fabrics.
Main material: faux fur.
Additional material: trimming material for loops, piping, and binding — eco leather or a similar dense yet flexible material.
Interfacing: fusible material for reinforcing loop pieces, welt pocket parts, and other areas that require structure.
Notions: 6 buttons, hanger loop.
The sample uses buttons with a diameter of 3 cm. The loop length should be marked according to the actual diameter of the chosen button.
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.5 m wide, m | 1.35* | 1.35* | 1.35* | 1.40* | 1.40* | 1.45* | 1.45* | 1.75* | 1.80* |
| Fusible interfacing 1.5 m wide, m | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* |
| Trimming material 1.5 m wide, m | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* | 0.20* |
* Fabric consumption is given without allowance for shrinkage, distortion, layout gaps, and other technological losses.
Before cutting, inspect the material for defects, determine the pile direction, and test pressing on a small area. Faux fur and eco leather require a gentle temperature setting.
Cut all pieces from the main and trimming materials, then transfer all notches, pocket outlines, loop placements, and control marks. Cut the loop pieces from eco leather as rectangles and interface them with a smaller fusible layer so that the adhesive does not extend beyond the edge. Interface the welt pocket pieces as well and press them in half.
Step 1. Transfer the loop placements from the pattern onto the right front and the collar stand. Cut 6 rectangles from eco leather for the loops, interface them with a slightly smaller fusible piece, and mark the loop at the center of each detail. If you use a 3 cm button, mark the loop length accordingly.
Step 2. Make the handmade loops. Stitch along the marked rectangle to form a narrow rectangular loop. Then carefully cut the opening, turn the detail through, and straighten the edges. For a thin and neat loop frame, sew the topstitching following the actual loop outline rather than the outer edge of the rectangle. The visible allowance at the corners should not exceed 2 mm; trim the excess carefully with sharp scissors, moving the pile aside so the stitching is not damaged. Press the finished loops carefully through a press cloth or at a safe temperature.
Step 3. Mark the welt pocket on the front. On the wrong side, draw the welt frame and the pocket bag placement. If some markings are difficult to see on the fur, place pins at the corners of the welt as additional guides.
Step 4. Prepare the welt pieces: press the interfaced strips in half and form the visible welt width. For faux fur, it is practical to make the welt about 1 cm wide so that it remains visible in the pile.
Step 5. Place the first welt piece along the marked line and sew it in place, following the control marks. Fold it away, place the second welt piece, and sew it as well. Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines correspond exactly to the intended pocket opening.
Step 6. Cut the pocket opening: cut along the center of the welt frame, stopping about 1 cm before each end, then clip into the corners without cutting the stitching. Turn the welts through, fold the corner triangles onto the welt, straighten the opening, and sew the corner triangles in place. After that, topstitch around the welt frame with a 0.5 cm seam allowance, securing the welt.
Step 7. Attach the pocket bag, aligning its edges with the marked lines, and sew it to the front. A 0.5 cm seam allowance is more convenient here. If desired, the pocket bag edge may also be finished with eco leather binding.
Step 8. Sew the shoulder seams with the wrong sides together. Use a 1 cm seam allowance. Then spread the seam allowances apart and sew a securing stitch 0.1 cm from the seam on both sides. After that, carefully trim away the excess pile within the seam allowance without damaging the threads.
Step 9. Prepare the decorative piping for the shoulder seams and armholes. Cut eco leather strips 2.5 cm wide. Position the stretch direction so the piping has slight elasticity and lies smoothly over the seam. Apply fusible web with paper backing down the center of the strip, remove the paper, fold the strip lengthwise in half, and press it.
Step 10. Place the prepared piping over the shoulder seam and stitch it in place without stretching the piping or drawing up the seam. To help the eco leather move more smoothly under the presser foot, you may lightly lubricate the surface with hygienic lip balm.
Step 11. Set the sleeves into the open armholes. Place the pieces with wrong sides together, sew with a 1 cm seam allowance, spread the seam allowances apart, and sew a securing stitch 0.1 cm from the seam on both sides. Then trim the excess pile in the seam allowance and topstitch the piping over the armhole in the same way as on the shoulder seams.
Step 12. Place the front and back right sides together, align the sleeve edges as well, and sew the side seam and sleeve seam in one continuous seam. In the side seam area, trim the seam allowance on the back side only. Do not trim the sleeve seam allowance. Then sew a decorative topstitch to secure the side seam. Leave the sleeve seam without additional topstitching.
Step 13. Prepare and attach the stand collar. If loops are предусмотрены on the stand, they should already be finished. Sew the collar into the neckline with right sides together, matching all control marks. Use a 1 cm seam allowance. Then trim the lower collar seam allowance, and topstitch the upper collar piece to secure the neckline seam allowances upward.
Step 14. Prepare the binding for finishing the jacket edges. Cut 3 strips of eco leather 3.5 cm wide from selvedge to selvedge. Join the strips together and spread the seam allowances open. Sew the binding to the jacket edges with right sides together and raw edges aligned. Use a 0.7 cm seam allowance, following the edge of the fur. Do not stretch or ease the binding; on curved areas, only the slightest easing is acceptable.
Step 15. After finishing the full edge, join the binding into a ring. This can be done with a mitered seam at 45 degrees or another neat joining method with well-spread seam allowances. It is best to place the joins in less visible areas.
Step 16. Fold the binding to the wrong side, place its raw edge directly over the seam line, and sew a finishing stitch about 2 mm from the edge to secure the binding all around. When sewing eco leather, lightly lubricate the surface with hygienic lip balm if needed. If the pile gets caught under the stitching, carefully release it with a needle afterward.
Step 17. Sew on the buttons according to the loop placement. Attach the hanger loop by hand at the center back neckline on the inside.
Step 18. Give the finished garment a final careful pressing using a gentle setting, always testing the material’s reaction to heat. The jacket is ready.