The women's vest using pattern 3247 is made with a lining. The model has a small amount of ease, a fitted silhouette and is widened at the hips. The shoulder line is extended, and shoulder pads are included.
A separating zipper closure is placed at the center front. The neckline has a stand-and-fall collar. The patterns are suitable for suiting fabrics: gabardine, diagonal weave fabric, tweed, twill and other dense non-stretch materials.
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.5 m wide | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.35* | 1.35* | 1.35* | 1.40* | 1.50* | 1.50* | 1.55* |
| Fusible 1.5 m wide | 1.20* | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.35* | 1.40* | 1.40* |
| Lining 1.5 m wide | 0.60* | 0.65* | 0.65* | 0.65* | 0.65* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.70* |
| Zipper, cm | 54 | 56.5 | 59 | 59.5 | 60 | 60.5 | 61 | 61.5 | 62 |
* fabric consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, skewing, gaps and other technological consumption;
** the length of the elastic tape is approximate and depends on the density and stretchability of the tape.
Before cutting, the fabric must be pre-shrunk, checked for defects, pile direction, pattern and skewing. All notches, control marks, princess seam lines, places where pieces join and reference points for the shoulder pad must be transferred to the cut pieces.
The front, back, facings, front facings and collar pieces are fused with interfacing. For more accurate cutting, first cut out a section of fabric with extra allowance, fuse it, and after cooling cut the exact piece according to the pattern.
Fuse the front edge with straight-grain stay tape. Stabilize the armholes with stay tape with thread or soutache. Fuse the shoulder edges with straight-grain stay tape. Fuse the front and back necklines with stabilizing fusible stay tape; if using straight-grain tape, clip it on the curves.
Step 1. Cut the pieces from the main fabric, lining and fusible material, taking the grainline direction into account. Fuse the pieces according to the fusing diagram. After fusing, accurately trim the pieces according to the patterns.
Step 2. Assemble the front. Place the center part, middle part and side front piece right sides together. Stitch the pieces along the princess seams with a 1 cm seam width, matching the notches. Press the seams open without stretching the waist area.
Step 3. Assemble the back. First stitch the back along the center seam with a 1 cm seam width. Then attach the middle back pieces to the center part, and the side back pieces to the middle parts. Sew all princess seams with a 1 cm seam width and press them open.
Step 4. Place the front and back right sides together and stitch the side edges with a 1 cm seam width. Press the seam allowances open. After joining the pieces, clean up the armholes, shoulder edges and hem of the garment so that all lines are even.
Step 5. To level the hem, fold the garment, pinning the pieces along the princess seams, armholes and side seams. Even the lower edge; if necessary, mark a line with a ruler and trim the excess. The hem of the garment must be even and symmetrical.
Step 6. Stitch the shoulder edges with a 1 cm seam width and press the allowances open. Then sew the separating zipper into the center front. Fold the upper zipper tail onto the allowance and secure it with stitching so that an even edge is formed at the top of the front edge for the later attachment of the front facing and collar.
Step 7. Stitch the facings at the side seams. Attach the facing to the corresponding edge of the garment with a 1 cm seam width. Turn the allowances toward the facing and stitch on the facing, 0.1 cm from the joining seam. Trim the excess allowance to 0.5 cm. Press with the turn of cloth toward the facing so it does not show on the right side.
Step 8. Prepare the front lining. Attach the center front lining to the front facing with a 1 cm seam width. Attach the side front lining piece to the center front lining, matching the notches. Then attach the facings. Press the seam allowances open.
Step 9. Prepare the back lining. Stitch the back lining pieces along the center seam. Then attach the middle pieces to the center part, and the side pieces to the middle parts. Attach the facing. Stitch the lining along the side and shoulder seams. Press all allowances open.
Step 10. Join the lining to the garment shell. Lay the garment shell right side up, then place the lining right side to the garment. Attach the lining along the lower edge, leaving a turning opening on the middle back part, for example from a princess seam. Start and finish the stitching with bartacks.
Step 11. Attach the front facings to the front edges. Turn the allowances toward the facing and use the zipper joining seam as a guide. Stitch the front facing to the front edge on one side and the other, ending the seam near the bartack at the top of the zipper. Leave the collar insertion allowance free. Turn the garment right side out and press the front edges.
Step 12. Finish the armhole area for the shoulder pad. On the front, use the notch for matching; on the back, measure 10 cm from the shoulder seam and place a mark. On the shoulder pad insert, match the center notch with the shoulder seam and the side notches with the marks on the armhole. Attach the insert with a 1 cm seam; place bartacks at the notches. Press the free allowance from the notch on edge.
Step 13. Attach the armhole facing. Through the turning opening or through the neckline, align the garment shell and the facing right sides together along the armhole. Start from the side seam, matching the notches and the shoulder seam. Near the shoulder pad insert, turn the allowance back and stitch exactly into the control point. Attach the facing with a 1 cm seam width.
Step 14. After attaching the armhole facing, trim the excess allowance to 0.5–0.3 cm. Turn the allowances toward the facing and stitch on the facing, 0.1 cm from the seam. Press the armhole with the turn of cloth toward the facing so it does not show on the right side. Finish the second armhole in the same way.
Step 15. Sew on the shoulder pads. Fold the 1.5 cm high shoulder pad in half and place it along the shoulder seam so that it overlaps the shoulder seam by about 3 mm. Sew the shoulder pad with firm hand stitches only through the upper edge along the entire length.
Step 16. Check the shoulder line from the right side: it must be smooth, without pulling. Pin the edge of the shoulder pad to the shoulder seam. Align the insert allowance with the lower edge of the shoulder pad and secure the insert to the shoulder pad 3 cm to one side and 3 cm to the other side from the shoulder seam. Secure the second shoulder pad in the same way.
Step 17. Prepare the collar. Attach the stands to the upper and lower collars, matching the notches. Sew the seams with a 1 cm seam width. Open the allowances and secure them with stitching on the allowances on both sides, or press them open carefully. During pressing, do not stretch the place where the stand is attached so the collar keeps its shape.
Step 18. Place the upper and lower collars right sides together. Stitch the collar along the upper edge and outer edge, starting from the point where the allowances intersect. Slightly ease the upper collar. Turn the collar right side out, shape the corners, baste with the turn of cloth toward the lower collar and press.
Step 19. Sew the collar into the neckline. Place the upper collar right side to the front facing and lining, turning back the allowances of the main garment and lower collar. Stitch, placing a bartack at the beginning of the seam and matching the notches at the shoulder seams and center back. Through the turning opening, turn the garment and attach the lower collar to the garment neckline, again matching all control points.
Step 20. Open the allowances of the collar insertion seams and secure them to each other with hand stitches or machine stitching close to the collar joining seam, using a zipper foot. Turn the garment through the turning opening and press the collar.
Step 21. Secure the armhole facing to the shoulder pad. Hide the knot between the layers of the facing. With small hand stitches, catch the facing to the shoulder pad in the seam area so the facing does not turn outward. Secure the second side in the same way.
Step 22. Finish the hem. Through the turning opening, secure the princess seams where the lining is attached. Turn out the allowances and secure the hem fold at each princess seam by hand or by machine stitching. This is needed so the lining and facing do not pull away from the hem of the garment.
Step 23. Attach the lining along the hem as far as the turning opening allows, aligning the side seams and notches. Sew the remaining opening closed with invisible hand stitches. If the turning opening was left in the side seam of the lining, close this opening with hand stitches after finishing the hem work.
Step 24. Check the symmetry of the front edges, the evenness of the hem, and the fit of the collar, armholes and shoulder pads. Remove temporary threads if they were used. Give the finished vest a final press through a press cloth, without stretching the waist area, armholes or collar.