The vest made with Pattern 1085 is a modern children’s vest for girls, designed for non-stretch suiting fabric. The silhouette is shaped at the waist thanks to elastic along the waistline, which creates soft gathers and allows the vest to fit comfortably on different body types.
The vest is fully lined and features a stand-and-fall collar with lapels and a single button closure at the center front. This cut pairs well with blouses, shirts, and turtlenecks, and its classic lines make it suitable for both school and everyday outfits. The pattern is drafted for height sizes 104–158 cm.
Main fabric:
Lining:
Interfacing materials:
Notions:
| Materials | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (width 1.5 m) | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.65* | 0.65* | 0.65* |
| Interfacing (width 1.5 m) | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.45* | 0.45* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.55* | 0.55* |
| Lining (width 1.5 m) | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.45* | 0.45* | 0.45* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.55* |
| Elastic, cm | 50** | 52** | 54** | 56** | 57** | 59** | 62** | 66** | 69** | 73** |
* material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, distortion, layout gaps, and other technical losses;
** the length of the elastic is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic.
Step 1. Cutting and interfacing
Cut the pieces from the main fabric, lining, and interfacing, observing the grainline direction and “fold” markings on the pattern. Fuse the lower parts of the fronts and back with interfacing, and apply fusible stay tape/straight-grain tape to the shoulder seams, front edge, front and back neckline, and armholes. Clip the stay tape on curves to prevent puckers. Finish the side and shoulder edges of the main pieces if needed.
Step 2. Creating the waist casing with elastic
Using the front and back pattern pieces, transfer the elastic placement line (the casing line) onto the garment. The line runs at the same level across both the back and the fronts. Finish the side edges of the front and back pieces, place them right sides together, and stitch the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open. Press the hem along the marked fold line.
Cut the elastic to the required length according to the table or individual measurements. Place the elastic along the marked casing line on the wrong side of the back, securing first one short end and then the other. While stretching the elastic, stitch it to the back and fronts in three rows: along the top edge, along the bottom edge, and through the center. This forms a raised “casing” at the waist that draws in the vest and creates gathers.
Next, place the fronts and back right sides together and stitch the shoulder seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the shoulder seam allowances open.
Step 3. Sewing the lining and facings
Place the front facings (from the main fabric) right sides together with the front lining pieces and stitch along the front edge with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances toward the lining to reduce bulk at the edge.
Using the lining pattern pieces for the fronts and back, mark the positions of small tucks (to match the gathered volume of the outer layer with elastic). Stitch the tucks along the marked lines and press them toward the center: on the back—toward the center back, on the fronts—toward the front edge. Press so that the iron touches only the fold base of the tuck without flattening the entire fold.
Place the front and back lining right sides together and stitch the side and shoulder seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances toward the back.
Step 4. Joining the lining to the outer layer and finishing the front edge
Place the outer vest and lining right sides together along the lower edge, matching the side seams and notches. Stitch the lining to the hem with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving a turning opening (10–15 cm) at the back. Press the seam allowances toward the lining.
Next, fold the outer hem along the previously pressed hem fold line, tucking the allowance inside between the outer layer and lining. Place the outer front edge and the lining facing right sides together, match the notches, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, easing the facing slightly to create a small roll to the inside. Stitch the facing up to the notch at the lapel break, starting and ending with backstitches. At the notch, clip the seam allowance, stopping 0.1 cm before the stitching.
Turn the vest right side out through the opening. Baste the lapel corner and lapel: from the neckline to the button mark—rolling the seam slightly to the garment side; from that mark down to the hem—rolling slightly to the facing side. Press the lapels carefully to set the shape.
Step 5. Finishing the armholes
Through the turning opening at the hem, reach inside the vest and match the side seams of the outer layer and lining at the armhole area, placing them right sides together. First align the side seam, then align the shoulder seams so the armhole does not twist.
Stitch the lining to the outer layer around the armhole with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching all control points. Finish the second armhole the same way. Turn the garment right side out and press the armholes with a slight roll to the lining so the lining does not show from the outside.
Step 6. Sewing the collar
Place the upper and under collar right sides together. Stitch the collar along the top edge and the outer edge with a 1 cm seam allowance, easing the upper collar in the outer edge area (it is slightly larger to create the roll). Stitch the collar outer edge, stopping 1 cm before the ends where the collar will be inserted into the lapels. Trim the seam allowances at the corners to reduce bulk.
Turn the collar right side out, shape the corners neatly, and press the collar with the roll toward the under collar—only the main side of the collar should be visible from the right side, without the seam showing.
Step 7. Attaching the collar to the neckline
Place the under collar right sides together with the neckline of the outer vest. Stitch the collar into the neckline with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching the notches at center back and the shoulder seams, and matching the collar outer-edge points with the notches at the lapel break. The stitching runs from one lapel break to the other.
Next, turn the neckline to the inside: place the upper collar right sides together with the lining neckline and facing and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching the notches. Arrange the seam allowances inside and stitch the lining and back-neck allowances together, sewing as close as possible to the collar attachment seam. Turn the vest right side out and press the neckline and collar to set their shape.
Step 8. Closing the turning opening
From the wrong side, through the turning opening at the back hem, stitch the lining to the hem as far as the presser foot allows. Close the remaining small opening by hand with invisible (slip) stitches, forming a smooth edge without bulk.
Step 9. Buttonhole and button
Using the front pattern piece, mark the button position on the waistline—where the elastic runs. On the opposite front, mark the buttonhole placement, aligning it with the center of the front edge.
Sew the buttonhole by machine (horizontal or vertical, depending on your design) and cut it open. Sew on the button at the marked point and check that the vest closes at the waist snugly but without strain.
Step 10. Final pressing
Press the finished vest carefully: lapels, collar, armholes, the waistline with elastic (using a pressing cloth and without stretching), the hem, and the front edges. Make sure the lining does not peek out anywhere, the seams are even, and the button and buttonhole work without distortion. The vest made with Pattern 1085 is ready for fitting and wearing.