Dress 3251 for women is sewn from linen. The patterns are suitable for woven textiles and can be used both for a garment with embroidery and without it.
The model has an A-line silhouette, side inserts, a wrap at the front, a bust dart and a raglan sleeve with gathering into the cuff. The neckline is finished with a band, and the wrap is secured with a belt at the waist. Embroidery, if desired, can be placed on the sleeves and along the lower part of the side inserts.
For sewing the dress, linen or another woven fabric that holds its shape well and is suitable for wrap dresses is recommended.
Required notions: 2 buttons for the cuffs.
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.5 m wide | 2.40* | 2.50* | 2.50* | 2.50* | 2.75* | 3.00* | 3.00* | 3.00* | 3.10* | 3.10* | 3.10* |
| Fusible 1.5 m wide | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.60* |
* fabric consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, skewing, gaps and other technological consumption.
Before cutting, the fabric must be pre-shrunk, checked for defects, grainline direction, pattern and possible shrinkage.
During cutting, transfer all notches, centers of pieces, dart positions, allowance lines, front edge fold lines and hem lines. If embroidery is planned, do it before assembling the corresponding pieces.
Fuse the armholes and front neckline with bias stay tape with thread. In unlined garments, apply this tape from the right side, but make sure it does not go beyond the 1 cm allowance and is completely hidden in the seam.
Step 1. Cut the pieces from the main fabric and fusible material, taking the grainline direction into account. Transfer all notches, control marks, dart lines, allowances and reference marks for the band, cuffs and belt to the pieces.
Step 2. Mark the bust dart on the front. Fold the piece along the dart line right sides together, stitch the dart and press it downward.
Step 3. Sew in the side godets, following the notches. Attach the godet to the front and to the back, aligning the edges. Press the seam allowances toward the central parts of the garment.
Step 4. Fuse the armhole edges and front neckline with stay tape with thread. Apply the tape carefully to the edge without going beyond the one-centimeter allowance.
Step 5. Overlock the front edge and the lower edge of the dress. Before overlocking the hem, check the line after joining the seams and, if needed, even the edge with scissors. Press the front edge fold and the hem fold.
Step 6. Finish the corner where the front edge and hem intersect. Place a mark at the intersection point of the pressed lines. Fold the corner so that the folds run exactly along the pressed lines and the marks coincide. Stitch from the mark to the corner. The allowance can be trimmed or opened; then turn the corner, shape it and press.
Step 7. Topstitch along the front edge and along the dress hem at a distance of 2.5 cm, securing the fold.
Step 8. Fold the sleeve right sides together along the sleeve seam. Stitch the edges, overlock the allowances and press them toward the back half of the sleeve.
Step 9. Along the sleeve hem, in the section between the notches, sew two gathering stitches with the longest stitch length. Pull the threads so that the length of the gathered section matches the length of the cuff.
Step 10. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, following the notches. Align the edges, control the sleeve ease and stitch the pieces along the armhole. Overlock and press the allowances.
Step 11. Prepare the cuffs. Press the cuff in half, wrong sides together. Then fold the cuff right sides together and stitch the short edges with a 1 cm seam. Turn the cuff right side out, shape the corners and press.
Step 12. Fold the finished cuff in half and place it on the sleeve hem, matching the cuff edges with the notches. Check that the sleeve opening corresponds to the cuff length. Sew the cuff into the sleeve hem from notch to notch around the circle. Overlock the edge and secure the open section with stitching.
Step 13. Prepare the neckline band. Stitch the band pieces together at the control seams: separate sections are intended for the front, sleeves and back. Use the sleeve notches, center back and the places where the neckline transitions into the sleeve as guides.
Step 14. Press the band in half. Carefully press the band piece cut on the bias for the back section, shaping it into a rounded form. During pressing, do not stretch the edge; press the fold so the band lies evenly along the neckline.
Step 15. Along the upper sleeve section that goes into the band, sew two gathering stitches. Gather the sleeve to the length of the corresponding band section, distributing the gathers evenly.
Step 16. Overlock one long edge of the band. Place the band on the garment, leaving a 1 cm allowance for finishing the band end, and attach it along the neckline edge and upper sleeve sections. Press the seam allowances toward the band.
Step 17. Fold the end of the band right sides together, turn the allowance inward and stitch the end of the band. Turn it, shape the corner and secure the lower part of the band with stitching, covering the joining seam allowances.
Step 18. Make the belt according to the pattern. Place the belt pieces right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening for turning. Turn the belt right side out, shape the corners, press and close the opening with hand stitches or topstitching.
Step 19. Mark the placement of buttonholes and buttons on the cuffs. Sew the buttonholes and attach the buttons.
Step 20. Secure the wrap with the belt at the waist. If the fabric is stable enough, the wrap can be held only by the belt. For a more slippery fabric, it is worth additionally securing the wrap pieces.
Step 21. If needed, choose one of the methods for additional wrap fixation. Thin ties can be sewn into the band edge and an opening made in the princess seam to pass the belt through. Another option is to sew buttonholes on the wrap pieces and attach buttons on the princess seams. Hidden snaps can also be sewn on by hand to secure the wrap invisibly from the right side.
Step 22. Press the finished dress, check the symmetry of the wrap, the evenness of the band, cuffs, hem and front edge.