The women's jacket using pattern 3239 is a straight-silhouette model with a moderate oversized amount of ease, made with a lining. The shoulder line is dropped, elastic is provided at the sleeve hem, and a drawstring casing with a cord is placed at the waist.
Welt pockets with topstitched edges are finished on the front. The closure is a separating zipper with a wind guard. The collar is stand-and-fall, with a removable decorative tab on snaps.
Thin coat fabrics, dense drapey suiting fabrics, raincoat fabric, faux leather or similar materials that hold their shape but do not create excessive thickness in the seams are suitable for sewing.
Required notions: 3 cm wide elastic, separating zipper, 2 large eyelets, 8 snaps, ready-made cord or a strip of main fabric for making the cord.
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.5 m wide | 1.60* | 1.70* | 1.75* | 1.75* | 1.80* | 1.80* | 1.85* | 1.85* | 2.10* |
| Lining 1.5 m wide | 1.20* | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.30* | 1.35* | 1.35* | 1.35* | 1.40* | 1.40* |
| Fusible 1.5 m wide | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.85* | 0.85* | 0.85* |
| Elastic 3 cm for sleeve ×2, m | 0.21** | 0.21** | 0.22** | 0.22** | 0.23** | 0.23** | 0.24** | 0.24** | 0.25** |
| Zipper, cm | 64 | 65 | 65.5 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 68 | 69 | 70 |
* Fabric consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, skewing, gaps and other technological consumption.
** The length of the elastic tape is approximate and depends on the density and stretchability of the elastic.
Before cutting, the fabric must be pre-shrunk, checked for defects, pile direction and pattern, and the pieces must be aligned according to the grainline direction.
After cutting, transfer all notches, control marks, lines of the welt pockets and casing, and the placement points for eyelets, snaps on the collar, tab and wind guard.
Fuse the pieces according to the fusing diagram. Fuse the tab, upper and lower collars and welts by cord fusing. Fuse the hem pieces and wind guard piece as exact-cut pieces. Fuse the front edge and the front and back necklines with straight-grain stay tape; clip the tape on curves so it lays flat. Reinforce the eyelet placement areas with extra fusible.
Step 1. Cut all pieces from the main fabric, lining and fusible material. Check that the pieces match the labels on the patterns and fuse them according to the diagram.
Step 2. Transfer the welt pocket outline to the fronts. Extend the line to which the welt will be attached — it is located closer to the center front.
Step 3. Prepare the welts. Fold the fused welt right sides together, stitch along the short edges, turn, shape the corners and press. Sew a guide stitch along the open edge at a distance of 1 cm.
Step 4. Place the welt on the marked line so that the pocket opening is directed from the side edge. Stitch the welt from the beginning to the end of the marked line, placing bartacks at the beginning and end.
Step 5. Attach the first pocket bag piece. Turn the welt away, align the pocket bag edge with the front and stitch the pocket bag with a 1 cm seam, starting the stitch 1 cm from the edge of the pocket opening.
Step 6. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the stitching lines, stopping about 0.5 cm before the ends. Then clip the allowances into the corners without cutting into the stitching. Turn the allowances and pocket bag to the wrong side and shape the welt.
Step 7. Place the second pocket bag piece on the welt allowances and stitch it, using the welt joining seam as a guide. Press the pocket unit, spread the pocket bags and stitch them together along the edges.
Step 8. Check that the pocket opening is even. From the right side, topstitch at 0.1 cm, securing the short edges of the welt. Finish the second pocket in the same way.
Step 9. Place the front and back right sides together. Stitch the shoulder seams and press the allowances open.
Step 10. Sew the sleeves into the open armholes, matching the notches on the sleeve cap and the front notch. Press the sleeve joining seam allowances toward the sleeve.
Step 11. Prepare the sleeve hem for the elastic. Press the sleeve hem fold along the marked line. Cut 3 cm wide elastic according to the table or the individual wrist measurement.
Step 12. Place the elastic under the sleeve hem fold, leaving a 0.8 cm allowance, and secure the edge of the elastic with a 0.1 cm stitch. Then stretch the elastic along the hem fold, pin it and sew it to the sleeve hem while stretched.
Step 13. Place the garment right sides together and stitch the side edge and sleeve seam in one continuous seam. Press the allowances open.
Step 14. Press the jacket hem fold. The finished hem fold should be 4 cm: mark a line 8 cm from the lower edge, turn the edge up to this line and press the fold.
Step 15. On the front, following the markings, mark the eyelet positions. Fuse these areas additionally, then install eyelets or sew buttonholes for the cord exit.
Step 16. Mark the casing attachment lines. Overlock the lining casing piece, place it on the front so the upper and lower marked lines are visible, and stitch with a 0.5 cm seam. Place bartacks at the beginning and end of the stitching. Press the casing.
Step 17. Prepare the cord for the casing. You can use a ready-made cord or make it from the main fabric: cut a 3 cm wide strip, fold it in three and stitch.
Step 18. Assemble the lining. Place the fused front facings right sides together with the front lining and stitch. Press the joining seam allowances toward the front lining.
Step 19. Place the front lining and back lining right sides together. Stitch the shoulder seams. If needed, attach a hanging loop to the back neckline from the right side.
Step 20. Sew the sleeves into the lining, matching the front and sleeve cap notches. Press the allowances toward the sleeve. Then stitch the lining side seam and sleeve seam. Leave a 15–20 cm turning opening in the left sleeve. Press the allowances toward the back.
Step 21. Sew the separating zipper into the front edges of the garment. Attach the zipper from the hem fold to the upper edge, stopping 1 cm before the neckline allowance to leave room for inserting the collar.
Step 22. Prepare the wind guard. The wind guard length should correspond to the section from the finished hem to the collar attachment line. For easier collar insertion, the wind guard can be shortened slightly at the top.
Step 23. Form the finished wind guard to a width of 6 cm. Fold in the allowances by 1 cm and check how the fabric layers lie. If the fabric is thick, excess thickness can be trimmed gradually, for example to 0.3 cm, then the allowances aligned and secured with a 0.5 cm guide stitch.
Step 24. Mark the wind guard attachment position after sewing in the zipper. Find the exact center line of the zipper, step back 1 cm from it for the wind guard attachment allowance and draw the line. Place the wind guard on the right front and stitch along the marked line.
Step 25. Turn the wind guard away, trim the allowance and topstitch along the wind guard to secure it. The wind guard can also be sewn through on the finished garment, but when it is finished before joining with the lining, the seam is cleaner.
Step 26. Join the garment shell to the lining at the hem. Lay the garment right side up, place the lining on top right sides together, align the center, side seams and lower edges. Stitch the lining to the garment hem with a 1 cm seam.
Step 27. Secure the hem fold at the side seams. This can be done by hand or machine stitching so the fold does not shift during further processing.
Step 28. Attach the front facings to the front edges along the zipper. Open the allowance, wrap the lower zipper end with the hem fold, slightly tension the pieces and stitch, using the zipper joining line as a guide. Place the bartack at the zipper bartack, leaving the upper allowance free for the collar.
Step 29. Turn the allowances toward the front facing and stitch 0.1 cm from the bartack along the front edge, securing the allowances. Stitch as far as machine access allows.
Step 30. Attach the lining to the sleeve hems. Insert the lining into the sleeve, match the lining seam with the sleeve seam and check that the lining is not twisted. Through the neckline or turning opening, turn out the sleeve hem and stitch the allowances right sides together with a 1 cm seam.
Step 31. Topstitch along the sleeve hem at a distance of 3 cm from the edge. Stretch the elastic while stitching, align the sleeve edge and, if needed, secure it first with pins or basting.
Step 32. Prepare the collar. Transfer the snap marks to the lower collar, symmetrically on the right and left sides, and install the lower snap parts.
Step 33. Place the upper and lower collars right sides together. Stitch the collar along the outer edges, starting and ending the stitching from the 1 cm allowance for insertion into the neckline. If one collar has a larger edge according to the pattern, distribute the slight ease evenly. Trim the corners, turn the collar and press almost on edge with a slight turn of cloth toward the lower collar.
Step 34. Sew the lower collar into the garment neckline. Place the lower collar right side to the main fabric, matching the neckline and collar notches. Turn back the upper collar allowance; start and finish the stitching point to point with bartacks on the collar and garment.
Step 35. Through the turning opening in the sleeve, turn the garment and attach the upper collar to the lining neckline and front facings. Then open the neckline allowances, align them and secure them together close to the collar insertion seam — with a zipper foot or hand stitches.
Step 36. Turn the garment to the right side. Press the collar insertion seam. Sew the turning opening in the sleeve closed with invisible hand stitches or machine stitching.
Step 37. Prepare the collar tab. Place the two fused pieces right sides together, stitch around the perimeter, leaving a small opening for turning. Trim the corners, trim the lower allowance if needed, turn, close the opening by hand and press on edge without turn of cloth.
Step 38. Before installing snaps on the tab, check its fit on the finished collar. For accuracy, you can make a test tab from dense mock-up fabric, punch holes for the snaps and check whether they match the snaps on the collar.
Step 39. Mark the snap positions on the finished tab. The guide is approximately 1.5 cm from one edge and 1.5 cm from the other edge. Install the snaps and check how the tab fastens on the collar.
Step 40. Install snaps on the wind guard. First mark the upper and lower snaps, then divide the section between them into equal parts and mark the remaining snaps. Install the upper snap parts on the wind guard, transfer the marks to the jacket and install the lower snap parts.
Step 41. Thread the cord into the casing through the eyelets. The cord ends can be tied into knots or finished with cord locks, adjusting the jacket volume at the waist.
Step 42. Press the finished garment, especially the front edges, hem, sleeves, collar, casing and wind guard. Check the function of the zipper, snaps and eyelets, and the evenness of the topstitching.