The women's biker jacket using pattern 3240 is an oversized lined model. The jacket has a dropped shoulder line, an insert along the shoulder and sleeve with an epaulette, princess seams on the front, welt pockets with topstitched edges, a back yoke, a separating zipper closure and a wind guard.
Cuffs are provided at the sleeve hems and jacket hem. The collar is stand-and-fall and asymmetrical. The pattern is suitable for faux leather, suede, corduroy, denim, coat fabrics and other dense fabrics.
Dense materials that hold their shape well are suitable for sewing the jacket: faux leather, suede, corduroy, denim, coat fabric.
Required notions: snaps — 8 pcs., separating zipper, 5 cm wide elastic. You will also need lining fabric, fusible material, fusible web for individual units and thread matching the main material.
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.5 m wide | 2.00* | 2.05* | 2.05* | 2.10* | 2.15* | 2.15* | 2.35* | 2.40* | 2.40* |
| Lining 1.5 m wide | 1.20* | 1.20* | 1.20* | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.25* |
| Fusible 1.5 m wide | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.80* |
| Elastic 5 cm, cm | 80** | 84** | 88** | 92** | 96** | 100** | 104** | 108** | 112** |
| Zipper, cm | 69 | 70 | 70.5 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 73 | 74 | 74.5 |
* Fabric consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, skewing, gaps and other technological consumption.
** The length of the elastic tape is approximate and depends on the density and stretchability of the elastic.
Before cutting, prepare the material according to its properties: pre-shrink textiles, do not overheat faux leather and press it only through a press cloth. Be sure to check the material for defects, pile direction, pattern and shade differences between pieces in the batch.
During cutting, take the grainline direction or pile direction into account. Transfer all notches, control marks, pocket lines, epaulette placement, snaps, pleats and stitching lines from the patterns to the pieces.
Fuse the pieces according to the fusing diagram. Fuse the pocket welt completely. On the right front, fuse the upper part and do not fuse the lower part. It is also advisable to fuse the center front piece: this will make the piece look neater. If the material is very dense and excess thickness forms in this area, the allowance can be carefully graded away.
Cut the asymmetrical upper collar carefully: the right side of the pattern corresponds to the right side of the material. The right part of the collar is larger, and the center of the collar matches the center back.
Step 1. Cut the pieces from the main fabric, lining and fusible material. Transfer all notches, pocket lines, princess seam lines, marks for epaulettes, snaps, pleats and closure. Fuse the pieces according to the diagram.
Step 2. Finish the welt pocket with topstitched edges. Transfer the pocket outline to the front and, if needed, extend the guide lines so the welt can be placed conveniently. Fold the welt piece right sides together, stitch the short edges, turn, shape the corners and press. Sew a guide stitch 1 cm from the edge; it will guide the welt attachment.
Step 3. Place the welt on the marked line as it should lie in the finished garment and stitch it, starting and ending with bartacks. Place one pocket bag piece on the front and stitch it, using the frame edge as a guide and stopping about 1 cm before the edge. Make bartacks. Cut the pocket opening in the middle and clip toward the corners, stopping 0.1 cm before the bartacks and stitching.
Step 4. Turn the pocket bag and welt to the wrong side. Place the second pocket bag piece on the welt allowance and stitch, using the welt joining seam as a guide. Turn the pocket bag toward the center front and stitch it around the perimeter. Straighten the welt and topstitch along its short edges with a 0.1 cm seam width. Press the finished pocket.
Step 5. Prepare the waistband for elastic. For 5 cm wide elastic, mark the topstitching lines: make the center channel about 6 cm, then mark 2.7 cm for the first stitching line and 1.7 cm for the second. Fold the waistband piece and secure it with a seam. Place the waistband with elastic right sides together with the front and stitch an approximately 10 cm section, stretching the piece.
Step 6. Finish the right front. This piece consists of two parts: the upper one is fused, the lower one is not fused. Place the pieces right sides together and stitch with a 1 cm allowance. Trim the corners, turn the piece, shape it, press and topstitch around the perimeter.
Step 7. On the left front, attach the center piece up to the notch where the fold begins. Turn the allowances toward the center piece and topstitch. On the right front, place the prepared right piece, aligning it with the elastic hem and edge. Then attach the center front piece up to the notch, turn the piece and topstitch. Place a bartack near the elastic.
Step 8. Attach the front sleeve parts to the front. Place the pieces right sides together, match the notches and stitch. Direct the seam allowances toward the garment and topstitch.
Step 9. Finish the back. Stitch the center back seam, fuse the allowances with fusible web or a suitable fusible material, open the allowances and press. Attach the yoke to the back, direct the allowances upward toward the yoke and topstitch. Then attach the back sleeve parts to the back, direct the allowances toward the garment and topstitch.
Step 10. Prepare the sleeve inserts and epaulettes. Transfer the marks from the pattern to the sleeve insert. Apply fusible web along the edge of the epaulette, remove the paper and press the allowances along the marked lines. Following the notches, fold the epaulette wrong side to wrong side, stitch, turn, align the corners and topstitch on the right side.
Step 11. Apply fusible web to the shorter lower side of the epaulette, remove the paper, bring the edges butt to butt and press, closing the allowance. Place the prepared epaulette under the marked square on the sleeve insert and attach it: place a bartack, stitch around the epaulette attachment outline and place another bartack. Mark the snap position on the epaulette and install part of the snap.
Step 12. Attach the sleeve insert to the back. Direct the allowances toward the insert and topstitch 0.5 cm wide. Then place the front with the insert right sides together and stitch along the edge, matching the notches. Also direct the allowances toward the insert and topstitch 0.5 cm wide. Press the unit.
Step 13. Stitch the side seam and sleeve seam in one line, matching the control marks. The side seam must be opened and pressed. The sleeve seam can also be opened and secured with fusible web if the material allows it. After that, attach the waistband with elastic to the hem of the garment, aligning the notches and placing the pieces right sides together.
Step 14. Attach the upper asymmetrical collar. Place the collar and neckline right sides together, matching the collar center with the center back and all notches. Align the left edge of the collar with the front edge. Stitch the right part to the notch where the collar attachment section ends and the zipper unit begins. Place a bartack at this point.
Step 15. Attach the separating zipper. Sew the left side of the zipper in the usual way: from the mark at the hem fold to the 1 cm allowance on the stand, opening the stand allowances. Sew the right side of the zipper not all the way to the top, but exactly to the point where the upper collar stitching to the front ended. Fold the upper edge of the zipper tape at an angle and secure it so the finished closure looks neat.
Step 16. Attach the lower right stand. Place the lower stand right sides together with the outer part of the collar and stitch around the perimeter with a 1 cm seam, starting about 3 cm from the edge. Place the bartack exactly at the point where the upper collar is attached to the front. Trim the corners and turn the piece. Do not grade the allowances too close so it is convenient to topstitch.
Step 17. Align the zipper and topstitch it onto the lower right stand with a 0.5 cm seam. At the point where the zipper bartack is on one side and the stand allowance is on the other, place a bartack. Check that the zipper lies evenly without twisting.
Step 18. Assemble the lining. Attach the front facings to the front lining. Then stitch the lining shoulder seams, attach the sleeves and press the seams. Stitch the sleeve seam and side seam of the lining in one seam. Leave a turning opening in the left sleeve seam. Attach a hanging loop to the back neckline. Attach the lower stand to the lining and press the seams. On the lining sleeves, fold the pleats the same way as on the shell pieces: the first section is for the closure, then fold two pleats and secure them.
Step 19. Join the lining to the garment shell. Lay the jacket right side up, place the lining right side to the jacket. First attach the lining to the free allowance sections with a 1 cm seam, placing bartacks. On the left front edge, wrap the zipper with the hem fold and attach the front facing, using the zipper joining seam as a guide. Attach the stand, matching notches and seams, and open the allowances.
Step 20. On the right front edge, also wrap the zipper with the hem fold and attach the front facing to the stand, placing a bartack. Then turn the allowances away and stitch the stand side, using the zipper joining seam as a guide. Slightly turn out the right side of the stand, free the allowance left at the beginning of the seam, direct the stand allowance to the lower stand and stitch the upper and lower stands together. Reach the corner, pivot the stitching and place a bartack. Carefully trim the corner and excess zipper base, then turn the stand.
Step 21. Check the closure in the closed position. Topstitch 0.5 cm wide: from the bottom of the front edge, then along the stand, along the upper edge of the stand and along the open section as far as the machine allows. Turn the zipper away while working so the stitching lies evenly. Place a bartack at the end. Along the right front edge near the zipper, also sew a 0.5 cm topstitch, but do not go all the way to the top and place a bartack at the required point.
Step 22. Secure the stand allowances. Open the upper and lower stand allowances, fold them together, match the notches at the shoulder seam and secure as close as possible to the stand insertion seam. On the end sections, secure as far as access allows, approximately 3–4 cm.
Step 23. Finish the jacket hem. Wrap the lower edge of the garment with the hem fold and stitch the fold to the allowance. On the right side, carefully clip the allowance, stopping about 1 mm before the seam, so it turns correctly. Pull the hem fold up, use the joining seam as a guide, place a notch and stitch. On the left side, do not clip the allowance because it is already directed the right way.
Step 24. After attaching the hem fold, turn the lining and stitch it to the lower edge, using the waistband-to-side-seam joining seam as a guide. Work as far as access under the presser foot allows. If a small opening remains near the seam, it will not be visible after pressing.
Step 25. Finish the cuffs. Place two cuff pieces right sides together and stitch the short edges with a 1 cm seam. Turn the cuff, shape the corners, press carefully and topstitch along the cuff edge. Place the cuff on the sleeve hem, using the two closure marks as guides, and attach it.
Step 26. Install the snaps according to the pattern markings or your own verified markings. Place the snaps on the epaulettes, cuffs and other designated closure points. Before installation, be sure to check symmetry and the correct direction of the pieces.
Step 27. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Align the lining and find the sleeve seam on the main fabric and on the lining. Through the turning opening, catch the allowances, turn the unit out and stitch the lining to the sleeve hem, making sure the sleeve is not twisted. Finish the second sleeve in the same way.
Step 28. Turn the jacket through the turning opening in the left lining sleeve. Check the front edges, zipper, stand, collar, cuffs and hem. Sew the turning opening in the lining closed with neat machine or hand stitching. Press the finished garment according to the properties of the material.